Day 15: Rua to Santiago de Compostela

 

On our final leg today, I am certainly not on my last legs. I had entertained the possibility of leaving early so we can make the mass at noon. It looked like an attractive idea to be at the pilgrim mass on the same day that we arrive in Santiago. However, it appears that most people don't do it unless they spend the last night at a closer location. Given our track record for speed, or the lack thereof, in order to cover 20 km and have enough time to get the certificate, we'd have to leave well before 6AM.

So we left the peacefully quiet town of Rua after a leisurely breakfast which usually starts no earlier than 7:30AM in most hotels on the Camino.

The mid morning break was a bit early today at Amenal.



Corn harvesting, mom and pop style, near Amenal

Near Amenal



This man's obviously conflicted. He chose to ignore his inner voice and trust the old sign on the marker instead, the correct decision. (Actually, what was on his back turned out to be a logo for a tour company. It could be confusing to the weary pilgrim behind him.)



On the way to San Paio. One of the nicest shell sculptures we have seen. No crowds as most people have passed us - our strategy working!



Near Lavacolla. No smell from these roses?

 

 

In Lavacolla. It's been a glorious morning indeed.



 

Why not? This man from Bavaria has pulled it all the way from St. Jean Pied de Port. He said maybe 500 people have taken a picture of him on the Camino.

 

As we got closer to the hill where the pilgrims in the past would get a first glimpse of the spires of the Santiago cathedral, I wanted to make sure we get there while the weather was still good, which delayed our lunch. Alas, at Monte de Gozo, the view was only of the Santiago suburbs. This is also the site of a memorial to celebrate Pope John Paul II's visit. Boy, did he travel.

Upon entering the old city, with our anticipation growing, we were right behind the Spanish couple from Madrid whom we had seen struggling earlier and who were two of the very few moving slower than us. When the top of one of the spires came in view as we walked down Rua de San Pedro, they were in tears. A reenactment of a medieval scene, I suppose.

So there we were, in the Cathedral Plaza in Santiago finally. I have walked every single one of the 300 or so kilometers. Chisoon has done most. Not needing to do anything once we arrived at the Cathedral except checking at the hotel a couple of minutes away, we sat down on the square for a while and admired the façade. How can any one be disappointed? It is not the grandest or the most esthetic, but its weather-worn face has witnessed pilgrims and their stories for centuries. And people-watching meant recognizing faces from the walk with occasional congratulatory hugs.




We are finally here. Santiago Cathedral. The sun came out. Chisoon's doing the splits. All is well.

Another reason I had thought about attending today's mass, in addition to tomorrow's, was to increase the odds for witnessing the Botafumeiro (swinging of the incense burner), which I understand is infrequently performed. Chances are that it won't happen tomorrow. We ate dinner at a restaurant with the same name, as a consolation in advance. One of the dishes was scallops. We are now living, breathing and eating Santiago.

Sea scallops. Before...

And after.

After dinner, the sun had set, and we went back to Praza do Obradoiro. (Why is there L-R confusion here? We are not in Japan!)