Camino de Santiago LITE: Day 5 (Camino II): Akerreta to Pamplona

Upon getting up, I go out on the hotel balcony in Akerreta and look down. And there it is! The courtyard where the fictitious owner acting out his fantasy of being a toreador in "The Way." Call it what you want, but today will be a mini-pilgrimage within a pilgrimage to movie locations. The person who told us that he was ready to call the police last night when we did not arrive on time turns out to be the actual owner. Upon noticing my morbid curiosity, he describes the scenes filmed here, which of course I immediately recognize. He also proudly shows us the photos taken during the restoration of this Basque house which turned into an excellent accommodation.

Hotel Akerreta: the spot from "The Way" where the owner fantasizes being a bullfighter

Another movie spot at Hotel Akerreta, where Martin Sheen encounters boisterous Europeans eating together

One of the 5 oldest Basque kitchens with a huge chimney, now preserved as a lounge at Hotel Akerreta

Pilgrims are streaming by, most of whom probably started a couple of hours ago in Zubiri. It is overcast but fortunately not raining, as we leave this hilltop town behind. This will be one of the shortest walks amounting to only 14 km.

Skies threaten but thankfully no rainfalls today

Commotion while crossing the bridge into Zuriain: one of the two dogs walking with this lady just killed a chicken.

Not as elaborate a contraption as that of the German who we saw last year, but this Frenchman seems happy and sings all the way

Locals not being bothered by a throng of pilgrims and enjoying their Sunday morning

A climb up to Monte Miravalles. White and Red Basque colors on the Camino marker.

As we entered the suburbs of Pamplona, the Camino is well marked, which is not always the cases in a large city. Upon climbing up toward the walls of Old City, I easily find the restaurant featured in the movie, where we have lunch. The winding streets of Old City are a bit disorienting but after a moment of confusion (which I seem to have often these days), we finally locate our ultra modern hotel.

A little further up, it says "This is not Spain." But further up from there it says, "Somos Una Nacion." Better not get into politics here.

Upon entering Old Town Pamplona, we have lunch at Meson del Caballo Blanco. Another movie spot: this is where Martin Sheen argues with a big Dutch guy about Pintxos vs Tapas.

Hemingway put Pamplona on the map by describing the running of the bulls in "The Sun Also Rises," but this city is much more than that. It's a key Basque center as the historical capital of Navarre, a growing university town, and an important point on the Camino. Most sights are in a compact area and by the time we run into our Ian and Liz again, by pure chance or luck of the Irish, I am an expert navigator and lead them to their hotel. Even though I am tempted by a Michelin-starred restaurant at their hotel off Plaza del Castillo, we go to a pintxos bar, instead which is entirely appropriate when in Pamplona.

Hemingway's statue on Paseo Ernest Hemingway, appropriately in front of a bullring. This is least Pamplona can do for him, who contributed to their global fame.