Day 16: Santiago de Compostela

Casa de la Troya is a delightful boutique hotel close to the cathedral. An old Spanish novel based on a house at this location has been added to my very long to-do list.

The Galician soft cheese with quince jam is often served at breakfast.

There was a heavy downpour overnight but when we headed out, the rain had stopped. My feet were burning last night but they felt much better this morning as if I had not walked all that distance. We felt it was just going to be a great day. First stop, the certification office. The line was not long probably because we went as soon as they opened at 9AM.

The Japanese lady behind us in line walked alone all the way From St. Jean and arrived early this morning.

 

 

Back at the Cathedral Plaza, there is always great people watching.



The pilgrim team with the most character, hands down.

Even though it was long before the noon mass, we decided to check out the interior of the Cathedral. It was pretty empty so we could easily visit St. James' casket in the crypt and climb up to the high altar where the pilgrims can hug the Saint from behind.

However, the main entrance was blocked off so there was no access to the famed Portico de Gloria (Door of Glory). This is where pilgrims approach the central column and touch it while kneeling as they enter the Cathedral. So much for the emotional entrance (not for us necessarily but for others which we could have witnessed.)

But wait, there is a sign that with a guided tour you can gain access, so we purchase tickets for an English tout at 1:10PM. (They cost 8 euros each after a discount for pilgrims.) This tour would be between the mass and a lunch at the Parador. What a fine plan. Furthermore, we discover that we can go beyond the roped-in area now and start exploring. We feel quite privileged to be on the other side of the rope from the rest of the visitors who are starting to enter the Cathedral in increasing numbers.



The view of the central column of Glory Portico from within the restricted area. You can see the worn surface on the bottom of the column from centuries' touching by the pilgrims. Can you make out the five finger marks?



Self-sculpture by Mateo, who built the Portico in late 12th century.  The tradition is for the pilgrims to rub their foreheads against his. This head-butting is for transfer of wisdom, but it appears to be no longer allowed.

We then went back to the hotel to pack and check out. When we returned at 11:20AM, the Cathedral was already packed!



It was standing room only, or bottom-of-column only, well before the noon mass.

I did notice that there was a small incense burner hanging but did not think too much of it.  When I  checked in the book the picture of the Botafumeiro, it looked the same as the one hanging, and I was thinking at that point that maybe they have a small replica out. But I am keeping some hope alive.

But then, toward the end of the mass, six men in red robes come out and start untying the ropes off the column. This is happening in full view in front of me sitting on the left side which I had read is the best location for viewing the Botafumeiro. My heart is racing and I frantically start shooting while trying to position myself optimally and take out my video camera as well. As the incense-filled burner starts to swing, I hear ooh's and ah's with camera clicks. This is during a mass? Yes, but oh, it is the swinging of the Botafumeiro! It was difficult to obtain accurate information before we left home, and here people have told me that it occurs reliably on Fridays and some Sundays. But they probably don't want pilgrims to cherry-pick the day to come to the mass, would they?  Regardless,  it appears that someone was generous enough to donate and make it happen. It was a spectacle indeed, happening inside a centuries-old cathedral packed with visitors and weary pilgrims many of whom with huge backpacks and some still wearing wet ponchos. This deserves a series of pictures in this post.



Men getting the Botafumeiro ready

Start

Swinging

 

And swinging

And swinging

 

End

After the mass, the Cathedral cleared quickly, as if all pilgrims, yet again, moved on with a purpose. Finisterre? Lunch? It turned out that we were the only people on the English tour. The guide was excellent and the surprise element was that she took us onto the scaffolding built for restoring Glory Portico. It was fantastic to be able to see the details of the carvings while walking on the scaffolding. All this for 8 euros! Best value for any tour, bar none.

The tour started with computer graphics of The Portico



Up close. Left side of Glory Portico

The center of Glory Portico from the scaffolding. You can see the top of the center column.

Essentially a private tour. Once the restoration is completed and the scaffolding removed (who knows when), this won't be possible. What an opportunity.



Apostles. From the scaffolding.

Lunch was at the Parador right on the Cathedral Plaza. That completed the bookend lunch splurges at the paradors, at Leon to start and at Santiago to end.





The Santiago Parador

What a great day and a great way to finish the Camino.



Chisoon's pilgrim certificate