Day 13: Palas de Rei to Arzua

 

The rain gods were kind to us again today.
We were soon out of Palas de Rei on a very pleasant morning.



Chisoon going in the direction the pilgrim statues are pointing

There were visibly more walkers but the Camino never felt crowded.

San Xulian: it still does not appear overwhelmed.

 

After two hours, a break at Casanova would have been perfect, but surprisingly no cafes were open. Who would not want to sit in a bar in a town called Casanova?



A marker in Casanova: 60 km to Santiago

We proceeded through a series of picturesque towns but not before we witnessed not one, but two falls on the slippery rocky trail. While we stopped where an elderly lady had apparently sustained a wrist fracture, a younger lady with a large backpack slipped on the same spot behind us. (Later we learned that they were both sent by ambulance to Lugo, the local capital, and the latter would require surgery on her ankle.) A sobering reminder that physical danger lurks on the Camino.

 

O Coto




Leboreiro



Leboreiro

The poplar tree seems to be a popular choice in this stretch.





Approaching Melide

 

Melide is at a half-way point and an excellent lunch stop where you can sample the local specialty, pulpo (octopus) with perhaps a plate of potatoes or pimentos. This was our first visit to a pulperia, and both of us thought it was the best type of octopus cooking we have ever encountered.

Near Melide



Melide



He said his pulperia is the best in town. why would anyone not believe him?

 

As usual, we took our time walking and exploring, and soon, along with a retired American speech therapist who walked with us most of today, we pretty much were the lone figures on the Camino.



We walked until cows came home, and more.

It was probably the day I was out there the longest, arriving in Arzua around 7:20PM, having walked more than 30km. (Chisoon took a cab for the last 3km uphill section from Ribadiso – her feet did extremely well.)

 

Arzua feels like a pretty large modern city, as I had to look for our hotel using a street address, a rare occurrence. But still, it reportedly has a high cow per inhabitant ratio and is known for its cheese.



Arzua cheese

 

 

Day 12: Portomarin to Palas de Rei

No rain except a few sprinkles. A local lady told us that they need rain after a three-month drought in Galicia. I totally sympathize, but I am happy to keep dry.

The main square in Portomarin is not actually on the Camino, so when we left our tranquil farmhouse we made a conscious decision to detour and see San Nicolas Church.  It was rebuilt stone by stone from its original location which is now submerged.  A Galician version of Abu Simbel, I guess.



A colonnade leading up to the church, Portomarin

A steady climb is punctuated by flat segments of attractive woodland. We are already anticipating our usual mid-morning leche caliente.





A pine forest with a fern floor



right across the road, the same design, except oak trees instead of pines

Finally at Gonzar, a cafe where everyone seems to stop. A group of friendly Irish women who started in Sarria are among those fascinated by Chisoon's handmade rain skirt. They also acknowledge the similarity between Galicia and their country on many levels.

A late but important stop for mid-morning snack

The delicious melon is ubiquitous.

In Lameiro, there is a sign noting the site where Charles V and King Philip of Spain stayed (it is now a barn), a reminder that we are on a historical pilgrimage route. Alas, few people seem to bother to notice it.

A historic site where royalties stayed, now a barn

At the last hill before Palas de rei is the little hamlet of Rosario, where pilgrims used to start reciting the Rosary upon spotting the sacred peak behind Santiago.




before Rosario




Rosario

Entering Palas de Rei we are greeted by a lady standing by the church door and motioning us to come in to get our passports stamped. For a "donativo" of course.


How about more languages? Maybe there will be more donativo then.

The check-in at Hotel Casa Benilde after a long day of walk is handled by a very sweet and welcoming person who shall remain nameless (Francisco). Same for his coworkers, Pilar and Isabel.

A tough day was made worse by longer photo stops for my smart phone,  as I had feared that I won't be able to dowload my "real" pictures from my camera to my Surface, which is acting up. I did manage today, but tomorrow's another day. A long day.

Day 11: Sarria to Portomarin

Light rain fell as we started the walk through the medieval section of Sarria but it soon stopped. If the Galician weather forecast continues to be wrong every day for the next five days, we are golden. Even in intermittent rain throughout the day our walk was very pleasant, and we decided we actually prefer the light rain over the blazing sun.



 

The sun comes out, casting Chisoon's shadow.





As the sun comes out, so does the farmer.

Beyond Barbadelo, we passed through one tiny hamlet reeking of cow excrement after another, but surprisingly there were no "bars." Finally, well past our lunch time, we arrived at Morgade, where everyone seems to stop. We saw some familiar faces plus a group of 30 Koreans who hurried on, three women from Argentina who took the overnight train from Zaragoza, and an Australian family with school-age kids whom I reassured with the Mark Twain quote, "Don't let schools interfere with your children's education."



Behind the modest front of the albergue in Mogarde is a charming restaurant with a courtyard.



This local man gave us small chestnuts and asked to pray for him when we reach Santiago.

Arriving at Portomarin, we were a bit annoyed that our hotel is about a kilometer away from everything,  first time we had any such location issue. But walking into a large farm with lush greenery and then the common area with wall-to-wall windows immediately conjured up an image of an isolated but self-sufficient eco-lodge in the middle of nature such as the Amazon jungles.




A grand entrance into Portomarin over Rio Mino




Our accommodation borders on an apple orchard.

A great day overall with Chisoon being able to walk the entire way. The number of people increased today. The amount of rain may increase tomorrow.

Day 10: Triacastela to Sarria

Rain.
But intermittent and light to moderate, so it was a good introduction to how to walk long-distance in the wet weather which is the forecast for the next several days.

This was the first day I set out when it was still dark. And sure enough I made a wrong turn getting out of Triacastela, heading initially toward Samos instead of San Xil. The Samos route goes through the magnificent Benedictine monastery, but it adds an extra 6 km, so the visit will have to wait until next time. I made a quick recovery along with a few other walkers and soon we were on a straight path up toward the summit.

A good deed goes punished: this missed sign would have been obvious, had I left a littler later.

It was surprisingly pleasant to walk in light rain although the walkers seemed a bit tense and "Buen Camino" did not roll off the tongue as easily. Time went by quickly aided by a nice conversation with an American surgeon who has been in rehab, physical and psychological, after a terrible accident. I did not stop for two and a half hours, which is unusual, but there were places to go and people to see - Chisoon was taking a cab to a half way point which was at the foot of the mountain on the other side. The umbrella worked quite well, since it was not very windy. I could take photos along the way despite the conditions, although having only two hands and two armpits while also handling the umbrella, the hiking pole, and the guidebook, I had to resort to certain contortions to accomplish it.



Through light rain, there was still visibility of attractive landscape.

I arrived at Casa do Franco in Furela, the rendezvous spot, a full hour earlier, and Chisoon and the Jersey lady had just arrived as well.  The poncho seems to be the raingear of choice. I have not warmed up to it yet since it can get quite stuffy, but Chisoon spotted an ideal model with a separate compartment for a backpack and a front and side zippers. We will be ordering it if we decide to return to the Camino some day, which we are increasingly leaning toward.

Chisoon in full raingear, including the double hats and a self-made rain skirt.



Even the sheep do not like the rain, including the little one.

At San Mamed del Camino, we stopped at an albergue with a large garden and spacious common area filled with incense. There were also a stone with a Tibetan Buddhist drawing on it and a foot massage machine. There I had an epiphany. Even though I have seen occasional advertisements for massage along the way, how about the Chinese foot massage which is ubiquitous throughout China and readily available even in the Bay area? A great business idea. You read it here first. But do we want People's Republic of China to discover the Camino?

Foot massage industry obviously in its infancy

Sarria is a fairly big city and this facility, after a series of rural inns, feels like a 7 star hotel. The rain fortunately stopped during our evening stroll through the old quarter. Sarria is also a starting point for many pilgrims who can amass the requisite 100 km to receive the certificate. Mr Brierley warns us against "aloofness built on a false sense of superiority" toward many of the nervous people who are just starting out. Ha. We have attained such a lofty status?

Scallop shells galore, Sarria



A pilgrim mural at Iglesia de Santa Marina, Sarria

Day 9: O'Cebreiro to Triacastela

Chisoon was ready to walk again. But I had to skip breakfast as my stomach was not at its best, likely from a very late dinner of pasta soup, pork chop, and a Santiago tart. At some point on the Camino, quest for adequate nourishment turned into gluttony. I will have to stay away from Menu Del Dia, well, at least for a couple of meals. I am still amazed how a three-course restaurant meal with a wine including tax can be 10 euros.

 The threat of a rain did not materialize and it was another glorious day for walking. Again, I know we are going to pay for this down the road.



Leaving O'Cebreiro in the morning. Same view from our hotel window.



A medieval pilgrim statue past Linares



Just before reaching Hospital de la Condensa. Alternating between nature trails and the asphalt.



Hospital de la Condensa, where one of the earliest hospitals for pilgrims was located.



In Galicia, it is women who usually herd the oxen. No editorial comment.



Pallozas again.



Galician cheese and honey during lunch at Fonfria

At Biduedo, where the steep descent for 8km toward our destination Triacastela begins, Chisoon and the Jersey lady took a cab. A Canadian couple joined happily.

 

Past Biduedo



An honor system obviously, in As Pasantes

I arrived at Tricastela well before 5PM and had early dinner. This felt like a normal day. What will tomorrow bring? Probably rain.



Triacastela



Triacastela

Day 8: Herrerias to O'Cebreiro

Galicia!
This morning, we left the province of Castilla y Leon and entered the province of Galicia. Me by foot and Chisoon by car. Her feet are significantly better after two days' rest. It was a short day consisting mainly of a steady climb of approximately 2,000 ft. Since it is equivalent to hiking to Nevada Falls, for someone who has been up to Half Dome, she could have easily done it, but it is the cumulative pounding that has produced her current foot trouble and she can use a longer break.

Amazingly the streak of rain-free days continued. In fact, partly sunny skies proved ideal for walking. The open vista in the latter part of the climb, the fresh morning air, and the camaraderie among walkers perhaps to the degree I have not seen yet, all contributed to a very pleasant three-hour hike.




Between La Faba and Laguna de Castilla  

 

Galicia border with official and unofficial declarations

 

I arrived before noon, and felt like declaring a la Abebe Bikila after winning the marathon at the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, "I could have walked another 10 km!" (Actually many do, come to think of it.)

The church is the dominant structure as you enter O'Cebreiro, which is surprisingly small and in fact if you don't pay attention, you might walk right by this town. As I entered the church grounds to explore, our hotel and the rest of the town came into view on the other side.



O'Cebreiro Iglesia, one of the earliest surviving structures on the Camino. The building on the right is now a hotel, where Queen Isabella I is said to have stayed during her own pilgrim to Santiago.

 



Don Elias Valina Sampedro, the creator of the yellow arrow among other achievements, without whom modern pilgrimage would not be the same, is buried at the church.

I remember Emilio Estevez in the bonus track on the "The Way" DVD speaking of O'Cebreiro as probably his favorite place on the Camino. I am not sure if that is totally true for me but once you walk up and down this tiny hamlet a few times it certainly grows on you.





O'Cebreiro



No, not a habitacion for a hobbit (wrong country!) but a Galician palloza (not short for Lollapalooza!), which I am just learning about.

 

O'Cebreiro sunset