Day 1 (del Norte): Irun

I haven't heard any convincing reasons why Irun is the traditional starting point for Camino del Norte. Perhaps it's simply because Irun is the first Spanish town along the north coast that borders on France, just east of San Sebastian. But in the old days, wasn’t the real starting point, at least for Europeans, the pilgrim’s house? The modern designation of a start location of any version of Camino de Santiago seems arbitrary to me. In any case, call it blindly following the tradition, but we are indeed going to start our walk from Irun. 

Today is not a big walking day. Just a short walk from our airbnb, in the eastern suburb of San Sebastian, is the local train which takes us to Irun. The Irun albergue where we hope to get the "credencial" is not supposed to open until 4pm but we are lucky to spot a lady who's willing to take care of us. It only costs one euro each and there are no other pilgrims in sight - already a big difference from the popular Camino Frances. Irun is urban without much character, unlike its counterpart St. Jean Pied de Port for Camino Frances, but it's a real town which has seen its share of tragedy throughout history. 

Irun: a nondescript town unlike SJPdP, but this shop window definitely has provocative messages which could get some of the pilgrims in the mood.

Irun: ah, the two familiar words - albergue and peregrino. This is where we pick up the "credential (credencial de peregrino)," the pilgrim's passport to be stamped along the way.

We don't have enough time to do a little bit of walking along the Camino that we had planned in Irun before returning to our airbnb for an important appointment at 2pm. Part of this trip is designed to pay homage to the great culinary tradition of the Basque region. Today is our first stop on this mini side-pilgrimage. Arzak, the renowned institution that is now in the fourth generation and has achieved global recognition, is only 150 m from where we are staying, practically a stone's throw. The meal does not disappoint. It is a high quality combination of taste, plating and creativity. We even meet the legendary Juan Mari, a major contributor to the creation of New Basque Cuisine in the 1970/80's, at the end of the meal for a hug and a handshake. (Alas, I didn't get a chance to ask him about his lentil "cookie" based on Korean Ssamjang.)

Arzak: the inventive appetizers: the Basque elements are given an innovative treatment. This item in front is txistorra with beer and mango.

Arzak: apple infused with beet root (behind which hides the foie gras). The septuagenarian Juan Mari and his daughter Elena (who already won the World's Best Female Chef title in 2012) show off their molecular gastronomy skills.

Arzak: my favorite of the meal and one of their signature dishes - "red" egg cooked at 65 degrees C

Arzak: A chocolate dessert containing citric juice brought out on a plate of real Persian black lemon

Arzak: petit fours, not bird eggs (or droppings)!

Even a three-hour lunch leaves us enough time and energy to return to Irun to take care of the unfinished business. We walk to the end of the town to find the bridge that leads to France. Bridge of Santiago has seen important historical events but now pilgrims consider it the very starting spot for Camino del Norte. It has drizzled most of the afternoon and evening, and now even the wind has picked up. It does not bode well for tomorrow, which is predicted to be the worst weather of the week anyway. I will probably feel much better about this time tomorrow.

Irun: after walking across the foot bridge to Hendaye, France and now looking back at Spain

Irun Bridge: moving to the main bridge on the French side and looking toward Spain

Irun Bridge: Now back on the Spain side, where the marker in yellow on the pavement that used to state 830km (to Santiago) has been erased or vandalized. (It is clearly seen in photos taken even a few years ago.) But at least we have our first sighting of the yellow arrow (upper left).