Monday, September 30, 2013

Day 13: Palas de Rei to Arzua

 

The rain gods were kind to us again today.
We were soon out of Palas de Rei on a very pleasant morning.


Chisoon going in the direction the pilgrim statues are pointing

There were visibly more walkers but the Camino never felt crowded.
San Xulian: it still does not appear overwhelmed.
 
After two hours, a break at Casanova would have been perfect, but surprisingly no cafes were open. Who would not want to sit in a bar in a town called Casanova?


A marker in Casanova: 60 km to Santiago

We proceeded through a series of picturesque towns but not before we witnessed not one, but two falls on the slippery rocky trail. While we stopped where an elderly lady had apparently sustained a wrist fracture, a younger lady with a large backpack slipped on the same spot behind us. (Later we learned that they were both sent by ambulance to Lugo, the local capital, and the latter would require surgery on her ankle.) A sobering reminder that physical danger lurks on the Camino.
 
O Coto



Leboreiro


Leboreiro

The poplar tree seems to be a popular choice in this stretch.




Approaching Melide
 
Melide is at a half-way point and an excellent lunch stop where you can sample the local specialty, pulpo (octopus) with perhaps a plate of potatoes or pimentos. This was our first visit to a pulperia, and both of us thought it was the best type of octopus cooking we have ever encountered.
Near Melide


Melide


He said his pulperia is the best in town. why would anyone not believe him?
 
As usual, we took our time walking and exploring, and soon, along with a retired American speech therapist who walked with us most of today, we pretty much were the lone figures on the Camino.


We walked until cows came home, and more.

It was probably the day I was out there the longest, arriving in Arzua around 7:20PM, having walked more than 30km. (Chisoon took a cab for the last 3km uphill section from Ribadiso – her feet did extremely well.)
 
Arzua feels like a pretty large modern city, as I had to look for our hotel using a street address, a rare occurrence. But still, it reportedly has a high cow per inhabitant ratio and is known for its cheese.


Arzua cheese

 

 
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4 comments:

  1. swagpanditSeptember 30, 2013 at 11:34 PM

    "Octopuses are among the most intelligent and behaviorally flexible of all invertebrates."--Wikipedia.
    Having pulperias along the Camino---wouldn't the walk be more spiritual if it was less violent?

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    Replies
    1. MachuPicchuOctober 1, 2013 at 9:08 AM

      Survival of the fittest goes on even on the Camino. It's kill or be killed. I view the intelligent invertebrate as my rival. I should get credit at least for foregoing pig ears which the Spaniards at the next table recommended strongly.

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    2. swagpanditOctober 1, 2013 at 7:14 PM

      C'mon. The octopus is not coming out of the sea to kill you and make you its meal; and the poor pig is a harmless animal. One would think that with so much greenery on the Camino there would be so many crops, vegetables and fruit to fulfill all palates.

      Anyway, awaiting your arrival so we can hear the stories of your long walks in person.

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    3. MachuPicchuOctober 13, 2013 at 10:31 AM

      Actually there is at least one other person who feels the same way as you about this apparently intelligent creature:
      "Galicia is also known for good country food; cheese, stews, cakes, home-baked breads. Octopus is the big local delicacy. I'd rather walk the whole route naked wearing an eight-legged sea beast hat than eat octopus but apparently some people like it."
      The quote is from this good short summary of the Camino I came across:
      http://www.dailymail.co.uk/travel/article-1390742/Walking-Northern-Spains-Camino-Santiago-Compostela-pilgrimage.html

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