Day 6: Molinaseca to Villafranca del Bierzo

A couple of hours after leaving Molinaseca, we arrived in Ponferrada, a modern city of moderate size, which makes it a bit challenging to get in and out. I have become sufficiently proficient with reading the maps and instructions given in Brierley's book so that I could find a shortcut into town relatively easily. (For any great compact book refined over time, you need to pay attention to every word and notation with complete trust). Even though the walkers passing by expressed doubt when I veered off the standard route, I successfully guided ourselves and a newly acquired companion from New Jersey to the old town. (She planned to walk the first three-quarters and then take a taxi for the final ascent to Villafranca. It is still admirable for someone to walk that much who is scheduled to have bilateral knee replacements when she returns home.)

Ponferrada has a number of historic sights in the medieval part of the city. We thought about waiting a few minutes until the Castle of the Templars opened at 10AM, while hot chocolate and churros beckoned from across the street. What to do if we spend the next 15 minutes here? We did neither - everyone walking past us with a seeming purpose and the knowledge that we have a long day ahead made us push on.



Castle of the Templars, Ponferrada, competed for my attention with the following.

After Camponaraya, a half-way point where we had lunch, the route ascends slightly through vineyards.



Grapes within reach; the pilgrims are either very honest or well-fed. Forget the ubiquitous 10-euro menu del dia - we just passed a cooperative where wine tasting with pincho costs 1.5 euro (50% more expensive than stated in the guidebook - what a rip-off!)

Cacabelos could have made a more reasonable destination for the day, as the final 10 km to Villafranca has pretty difficult ups and downs in the afternoon heat. Many of the rolling hills through the vineyards are reminiscent of Napa Valley. A woman from Belgium asked yesterday at Cruz de Ferro, "Why did you come so far? There must be so many nice places to hike in California." It is a good question on an afternoon like we had today. Chisoon stated that a walking holiday has rapidly turned into a penance.

 

The TV programs have been somewhat lacking (no CNN, no BBC), but I was willing to try this apparent new invention if we had stayed in Cacabelos,

 

This small church in Cacabelos is one of many places where you can get your pilgrim's passport stamped. A lady from Pennsylvania was fascinated by these stamps and collected 30 in 3 days. I suggested she contact the Guinness Book of World Records.



From one of the hills approaching Villafranca

At 7:15PM, we finally arrived at the hotel, a seven-room place with a great name of La Puerta de Perdon (the Door of Forgiveness), same as that of the adjacent entrance to Church of Santiago where in medieval times pilgrims who could not go on to Santiago received absolution.