Day 4 (del Norte): San Sebastian 2

We are today moving from the eastern suburb of of San Sebastian to the western part of the city. Sounds inefficient but it is designed to reduce the amount of walking on a given day. The weather is great as I set off alone. The wife and the luggage are coming by Pilar's car. Leaving the airbnb, I go uphill heading northwest and in a half hour reach a viewpoint at Monte Ulia. The thought of having a meal at some point at the nearby Mirador de Ulia, which supposedly has a great view and good food, has occurred to me, but I think walking by here will do for now. Soon I spot a yellow arrow and now I am back on the Camino heading down toward the eastern edge of the city. The googlemap and the Here map have helped but now the waymarking seems excellent.

Resuming the Camino: the ascent to Monte Ulia is rewarded by a fine view of the greater San Sebastian area. My destination this morning is Monte Igueldo, the hill on the right, way back behind the hill with a Jesus statue.

Descending to San Sebastian: goats seem frozen with curiosity.

Walking across the entire length of the city along the water, I am at the foot of Monte Igueldo. The Camino up this hill actually proves to be a short cut here.  I beat the wife and Pilar by 20 minutes and to think that they were concerned I would get lost or be really late, ha! It is now time to say good-bye to our wonderful airbnb host. It turns our she was featured in an article in Dailymail (UK) two years ago. Interesting that the writer had the same reason to stay at her place (proximity to Arzak) and it was also at the time of the film festival. Pilar's place is our only non-hotel lodging choice during this trip and I think we lucked out with such a helpful and energetic host.

San Sebastian: Surf's Up at Zurriola Beach in Gros.

San Sebastian: will be going to the opening gala of the film festival later, but for now keep walking.

San Sebastian: my gaze is generally down, looking for yellow arrows.

San Sebastian: up the hills in the Monte Igueldo area, trusting the yellow arrows, I finally spot our hotel.

This hotel has an excellent location (right on the Camino and with a good bus connection to Old Town San Sebastian), commands a great view,  and the owner is friendly. No wonder it has great ratings. And the view from the room balcony is well worth waiting an hour to check in. But it is time to continue the gastronomic pilgrimage to Martin Berasategui.

San Sebastian: a great sea view from our hotel room balcony

A 15-minute taxi ride south of San Sebastian takes to the small town of Lasarte-Oria where the restaurant is located. From the main entrance leading to the dining area you sense that this is a slick contemporary operation complemented by a warm staff speaking good English. We are seated in the terrace, and why not, the weather is perfect today. We overhear someone saying this is the best weather they had in the past week. 

The food at Martin Berasategui is as tasty as anywhere, and I mean every single dish is so delicious. This is remarkable since, while not as avant garde as at Mugaritz, many items here are bold and complex combinations of different flavors and textures with a high level of creativity. And the presentation is uniformly beautiful and often fanciful. This place would definitely appeal to every palate.  None of the three top temples of gastronomy we visited so far in this area have disappointed despite my very high expectations. The vacation, urm, the walk, is going very well.

Martin Berasategui: the first appetizer plate is already impressive. I didn't realize kumquat (right) could be so delicious. 

Martin Berasategui: one of their signature dishes, mille-feuille of smoked eel, foie gras, spring onions and green apple

Martin Berasategui: under the foam is red shrimp royale - the presentation continues to be exquisite with a whimsical quality.

Martin Berasategui: foam is ubiquitous these days but this is a frozen version, accompanying monk fish liver. The bread is focaccia.

Martin Berasategui: a recent creation - a fake truffle made with wild mushrooms

Martin Berasategui: sheer exuberance! All his dishes list the year of creation, and this iconic piece is Vintage 2001.

Martin Berasategui: every table seems to be getting a picture with the chef, including non-Asians (who are in the minority here today)!

Martin Berasategui: petit fours with passion fruit juice

After getting a little rest back at the hotel, we take the bus to the Kursaal, the main hall for the film festival. I bought the tickets to the opening gala as soon as they went on sale a week ago. Even though there was agonizingly scant information on what this event entails (other than the fact that a ceremony will precede the showing of a new movie), it sounded like something that we did not want to miss out on and I trusted that the high admission charges would be justified. (Not that I expect to be invited to an exclusive ball or anything.) I did not follow the initial instructions to get the actual tickets printed at any Kutxa bank machine and my attempt to get that done on-site proved to be frustrating. But we still have some time left for the "red carpet."

San Sebastian: two hours before the curtain goes up at the Film Festival, fans are starting to line up in front of Hotel Maria Cristina where stars are staying.

San Sebastian: crossing the river to the Krusaal, the venue of the opening gala of the Film Festival

San Sebastian: the red carpet being prepared

San Sebastian: photographers probably don't like to have pictures taken of them.

San Sebastian Film Festival: fans waiting in anticipation. We happen to get a good spot.

San Sebastian Film Festival: stars start to arrive. But they are driven in a van from the hotel two blocks away? Do these people ever get any exercise?

San Sebastian Film Festival: a sudden roar - must be a well-known Spanish heartthrob.

San Sebastian Film Festival: the fans' cheering is now reaching high decibel levels, but I have no idea who these people are. Thinking of leaving but I am being squeezed by screaming teenagers from the right and an almost wailing middle-aged woman from the left. At this point, I am just wishing I won't be caught by the TV camera.

San Sebastian Film Festival: This gentleman seems to really enjoy  his slow walk down the red carpet but most young people don't seem to recognize him. Emily Blunt and George Miller were the only two names familiar to me on the list of participants I read earlier. I don't remember what Miller looks like, but could this be? I can't even check on-line as I am still being squeezed in line.

The opening ceremony is worth sitting through, but it means the featured movie starts well after 10pm. Glad we are not walking the Camino tomorrow. The movie itself is a disappointment. The genre (suspense + horror) is not the favorite of either of us, but the execution leaves a lot to be desired. Seems that the two fine actors were wasted. Perhaps it's a challenge for a Spanish director to write and direct a movie that happens in Minnesota, even though Alejandro Amenabar is obviously very talented as he has won the Oscar for the Best Foreign Language Film with "The Sea Inside," a movie about the right to die with dignity in 2004 (a decade ahead of its time in view of a recently passed California bill). What a shame. As we leave, there are movies starting at midnight and the streets are still filled with people. Taxis line up only at designated spots throughout the city, which we find very civilized and perhaps a place like NYC could learn from it.

San Sebastian Film Festival: opening gala 

San Sebastian Film Festival: Mad Max: Fury Road receiving a special award, a well-deserved honor, I'd say

San Sebastian Film Festival: yes, that was George Miller, the director of Mad Max, I saw on the red carpet earlier.

San Sebastian Film Festival: the piece to open the festival is being introduced - "Regression," featuring Ethan Hawke and Emma Watson.

San Sebastian Film Festival: the director of "Regression," Alejandro Amenabar on the stage

San Sebastian Film Festival: Emma Watson giving the obligatory "sorry I couldn't be there" video speech. Excellent voice recognition with simultaneous translation seen on top.

San Sebastian Film Festival: Ethan Hawke sending greetings from LA, personable and convincing as usual