Camino de Santiago LITE: Day 20 (del Norte): Pobena to Castro-Urdiales

I feel physically much stronger, although am probably still about 80% of normal. It is drizzling outside but I am ready to walk. We say good bye to Portugalete and the excellent staff at the hotel. The taxi takes us to Pobena where we rejoin the Camino.

Portugalete: historic pictures on display - the lower right photo shows the bridge and the hotel and not much else over a century ago.

In Pobena, we start with a long climb up the stairs. When we emerge out into the open space at the top, we are right on the oceanside. Despite the weather, it is a fantastic setting with a wonderful pedestrian walkway constructed along the ocean. After about 6 km, the walkway ends abruptly, which signals the end of Vizcaya, or Basque Country all together.

Pobena: we resume the walk here, entering the rocky outcropping called it's-a-slur!

Pobena: fortunately after this long climb at the beginning, the terrain today is going to be relatively flat.

Pobena: light at the end of the tree tunnel - and it is the sea!

Pobena: looking back on the beach of La Arena we passed yesterday

Pobena to end of Basque Country is all paved trail like this.

Looking ahead to the westernmost part of the Basque Coast

The occasional open space acts like a wind tunnel. Fortunately the rain has let up.

me in the full rain gear

A goat watching over us

Soon the Basque Coast will end

This goat is right on the trail, unlike many of his shy compatriots

One last look at the Basque Coast

Now we have just crossed over into Cantabria. Good bye, Basque Country.

Now we are in Cantabria, another autonomous region like Basque Country (not to be confused with Calabria in southern Italy). We have been walking a couple of hours and I suddenly feel that energy is sapped out of my body. I started off well today, but after all, I have had no protein the last four meals. We go through the small town of Onton, but as warned from my guidebook there is no bar or restaurant. I should have taken a break with snacks a little while ago. It is uphill now right on or along a major highway. I am already missing Basque Country. A young German woman walks past us. We have seen quite a few solo women pilgrims - we are impressed with their courage but also concerned about their safety. An American woman was kidnapped and found dead on Camino Frances not too long ago. But of course we have felt very safe and welcomed everyday on the Camino so far.

Onton: at this critical fork, the official waymarking is only to the left, but we turn right for a shorter and oceanside route, which saves us 5 km. This is thanks to the otherwise too succinct Cicero guide.

We can see why this is not the official route, as we have had to negotiate with a highway all along. At least after a long steady climb, we are now downhill and Castro-Urdiales comes into view.

Cantabrian Coast: a decent Flysch formation?

Descending toward Miono

We reach the beach area in Miono, the small town on the outskirts of Castro-Urdiales, our destination. This is a good spot to get some rest. I am definitely not 100%. Glad I did not decide to do two days' worth of walking today. Soon we go up the hill to walk along the Cantabrian Coast in the strong wind. Althought it has a nice beach area and an apparently a popular tourist destination, Castro-Urdiales seems like a modern city which does not appear too appealing at first sight. I am missing Portugalete.