Day 23 (del Norte): Laredo to Noja

Last night I was able to tolerate some solid food, for the first time in 4 days, at an overpriced seafood restaurant on the beach. But of course the main question is how I am doing after yesterday's debacle with a kidney stone. I proudly declare to the wife that I am feeling great and we are moving ahead as planned. She looks incredulous and yet reluctantly goes along. But I am sending almost everything in a suitcase starting today, including my laptop and the other gadgetry, in order to further lighten my backpack. I just need to carry enough water and try to stop by every bar in sight for hydration (not for alcohol!).

The person at the hotel desk does not seem to understand why we are taking a taxi back to the hostal/bar in the suburbs of Laredo despite my attempt to explain I cannot skip any portion of the Camino. He keeps saying it's easier to go directly from here to Santona just by following the beach.

Laredo: this is a nicely decorated hotel but the restaurant is filled with a Spanish tour group. We are almost happy to be "banished" to the lounge for our continental breakfast.

Laredo: leaving the hotel named El Ancla, where anchors are everywhere.

We thank the nice family at the hostal up on the hill again for giving us a ride yesterday when I had to stop walking because of the pain. When the lady points to the right flank, I flash a thumb-up sign, and we both laugh. From that point down to the beach area, through the portion of Laredo we missed yesterday, I enjoy a leisurely and painfree walk this morning.

Laredo: back up to Hostal Carro where we stopped yesterday. There is a nice view of the beach from theiry property. Is that even a pagoda?

Laredo: so this is a fateful spot where I was writhing in pain yesterday. I remember the wet pavement! The hostal where we got help from is up on the hill (left).

Laredo: continuing to enjoy the panorama of the 5 km beach

Laredo: across from the far end of the beach is Santona, where we will take the ferry to later today.

Laredo: finding a large four-leaf clover right in front of a pilgrim fountain of "Santo Laurenzio"

Laredo: long steps leading down to Old Town through San Lorenzo Gate

Laredo: Old Town with Church of Santa Maria

Once we are down on the beach, it is a straight walk along the nice promenade to the far end of the 5 km beach where we take a short ferry to Santona. We get confused a bit about exactly where to wait for the ferry but eventually get on the boat that pulls up directly on the beach. We are joined by a British couple we had met at the hotel in Castro-Urdiales two days ago, first peregrinos we see today. They started from Liendo this morning so walked about 4 km longer than we have, which is not surprising.

Laredo: beginning of the 5 km long seaside promenade. The hair on this lady (or thing) turns like a weather vane.

Laredo: on the seaside promenade

Laredo: there must be over a hundred surfers out on "La Salve" on a weekday.

Laredo: we have seen a large number of French bulldogs on this trip.

Laredo: reaching the end of La Salve beach, we get on a short ferry to Santona. There are only five passengers going over, all pilgrims.

I like the waterfront in Santona - airy, relaxing and convenient. At the center is a large monument dedicated to Juan de la Cosa, who was an important member of the crew on Columbus's voyages to America and in fact the owner of Santa Maria, the flagship on the first voyage. It is a good spot to rest and have lunch. For the first time in more than four days, I have nearly a normal meal. We are less than a half way through for today's walk, but we keep our pace slow. It starts to drizzle as we walk through Santona, but the terrain is completely flat. When we reach its beach area (hard to keep all these beaches straight!), we decide to walk on the beach and why not. The only problem is there is no waymarking on the beach!

Santona: when we get off the ferry, we are greeted by this monument commemorating a local son Juan de la Cosa, a navigator and cartographer, who sailed to America with Columbus and also owned Santa Maria.

Santona: this Brit quips, upon learning that de la Cosa was the cartographer on Columbus' second voyage, "well, he just followed his nose!" Even after walking an hour more than us so far, he obviously has enough energy.

Santona: this dish of scrambled eggs with green peas or the prior course of seafood paella here may not be of the highest quality, but this lunch is significant since I am able to keep down substantial food for the first time in a long while. It's great to do this while enjoying the sea view. (The ferry is coming in again.)

Santona: out of the center and before reaching the beach, the Camino goes by the long prison wall. There must be some meaning to this.

Santona:  Playa de Berria is nearly empty. The two locals (little dots), when told we are from California, immediately blurt out Junipero Serra, probably because of his recent canonization. At least they didn't initially come up with Arnold Schwarzenegger in their apparent Word Association response. The hill we have to climb is seen in the background.

At the end of the Berria beach in Santona, the Camino continues up a hill which is short but brutally steep. It is as if it was placed to test the skills or the will power of the peregrino. Or once you reach the top, you can have a direct visual comparison of the two beaches on either side...

Santona: where the beach ends, there is a steep uphill.

Santona: thank Goodness it's not raining. This steep rocky trail could be dangerous when slippery and/or muddy

Santona: taking a break at mid-ascent

Santona: finally we reach a level surface where we have a fine view of Playa de Berria

And a few steps ahead, as we round the corner, another beach appears in front of us. This is not a flipped image of the previous one! (Noja, our destination today, is in the far distance.)

Well, the symmetry continues - rocky and steep downhill.

A lot of rocks on this beach.

Once we get to the bottom of the hill, we walk, where else, on the beach, instead of looking for the marked trail for the Camino. The sand is neither too soft nor too hard, but just perfect for a comfortable walk. We enjoy moving slowly until we reach our hotel on the near side of Noja.

Ryoanji II?

Noja Beach: the wife spreads out the shells she collected in Laredo while waiting for the ferry

Noja Beach: Where does he come from? What is he? Where is he going? Well, he is a pilgrim. And answers to the other two questions: Liendo and Noja (for today). Hungary and Santiago (longer-term). I thought I sneaked in a few shots of him but later he asks me to send him the pictures "for his wife," and I am happy to oblige.

Noja Beach: a cross on the rock

Noja: Getting closer to town

Noja: near entrance to town. It's been a long, varied, but pretty straightforward day, unlike these tamarisk tree trunks. I needed that!