Day 22 (del Norte): El Pontarron to Laredo

Today was going to be an uneventful day. Hardly!

First of all, it is only 12 km, after I sort of vetoed the wife's initial preference for the official recommended route which is more scenic but a whopping 6 km longer with significant elevation change. Her main thing is that it avoids the highway. But the prospect of having to walk at least an additional two hours or probably even more was daunting enough we finally agree to take the shorter alternative. There is just no way I am willing to take on the challenge of a much longer route at this point after the struggle last few days.

We taxi to the spot in El Pontarron where we stopped yesterday. Then it is literally walking on N-634 most of the way to Laredo. There is a moderate uphill in the first three km or so and I find it slow-going. After all, I have not had a decent meal in over 72 hours. Actually last night, I thought about going out to the main harbor area in Castro-Urdiales to photograph scenes in twilight but simply could not muster enough energy. It's not surprising that I am laboring in the early phase of the walk today.

El Pontarron de Guriezo: the "rotondo" is where we resume the walk on Camino, which means we are opting for the shorter highway route.

El Pontarron: after this sign, we would not see the Camino sign for a long time.

But we simply have to follow the N-634 highway toward Liendo/Laredo/Santander.

I find walking uphill a bit harder than usual, but surprise! A bunch of good-sized chestnuts have fallen right by the highway.

The wife prefers to walk as far away from the car lanes as possible.

A bridge of any sort is welcome as it usually has a protected pedestrian walkway.

The first peregrino we see today walks briskly past us. He probably started in Castro-Urdiales early this morning and has caught up to us after walking 15 km. But then, why did he not take the normal, longer route?

We reach a nice rest area with picnic tables right along the highway. I consume a few peeled raw chestnuts, which taste fine and hopefully will act as a bulking agent!

During the break, I play hide-and-seek with this pretty little robin.

Finally it succumbs to bread crumbs I threw on the table.

It has been raining for a while. In the greater Liendo area, we stop for a quick bite at a bar, so far a rare presence on the Camino. Some distance after that, with a few kilometers left to Laredo, we deviate from the highway to join the official Camino. I thought maybe we try this since we are close enough to our destination. Oh, a terrible choice. It is not only quite a bit longer, but it descends and ascends unnecessarily. Normally, I would not mind, but I am just struggling at this point. Significant lower back pain has set in. It looks like I almost have to crawl across the finish line today. After resting a couple of times, I mean resting, like in the supine position, the backache lessens a bit only to eventually become unbearable just when the long beach of Laredo opens up in front of eyes...

Liendo: ripened persimmons!

Liendo: a quick stop at a bar where the owner kindly throws in morcilla for free. A bunch of old folks bid us "Buen Camino" as we leave.

Past Liendo, I pass up the opportunity to join the official Camino.

But then at this point, careless of cocky, I choose to descend on the official Camino without checking carefully the length or the elevation change of this route. The poisonous looking big mushroom (left) should have been a warning.

Near Tarreuza: Pretty severe back pain has set in at this point. Feel like resting here, where the sign lists yoga, meditation, taichi, chigung...

My back is not holding up. Probably a bad back spasm, and I have to be flat for a while. At this point the wife takes my overstuffed fanny pack.

Resuming the walk and passing by a fig tree with almost no leaves in Tarreuza

Tarrueza: deep red, almost purple apples

The back pain, especially on the right side, is getting worse, so I lie down again on the church steps. Oh, have mercy. The wife takes away my laptop and I shamelessly take her hiking pole as we go uphill again. I can still move but barely.

Finally we come to a point where the famed 5 km beach of Laredo comes into view. After snapping this shot, the right "back pain" crescendo-es to a decapacitating level. I realize it is actually another kidney stone attack. There is no way I can even stand up at this point.

I break the news to the wife that I am suffering from another kidney stone. I start rolling on the wet street. Up ahead there happens to be a restaurant. The wife runs up the hill to get help. While she is gone, my pain starts to subside. It must have been 20 minutes of agony since the church steps. She returns with a huge bottle of water, and more notably an arrangement with the owners of the hostal/restaurant to drive us to our hotel: after they had tried to call a taxi for us unsuccessfully, they agreed to drive us themselves although they had to arrange for someone to take care of the bar counter. Such hospitality.

We check into a big mansion that is our hotel. I get into a bed and now feel quite comfortable. The kidney stone has passed and I have no "backache." We are going to have to re-assess the situation but for now, I don't think I need to change anything...

Laredo: the hotel is a well-appointed large mansion but I am just resting and not exploring the hotel grounds or even the beach area of the city especially with the rain this evening.