Camino de Santiago LITE: Day 18 (Camino II): Castrojeriz to Fromista

This small hotel oozes class, which undoubtedly stems from the very high standards the owners have set. Every other weekend, they drive 6 hours one way from Barcelona where they work as physicians, and this morning they are already getting involved in the nitty-gritty. This is clearly a labor of love for them, but they also volunteer extensively in Africa through a Mother Teresa organization and plan to take a month off soon to work in Ethiopia. We did not expect much for a five-Euro breakfast, but they bring out fresh-squeezed orange juice, warm croissants, and hot tortilla de patatas.
The young tall receptionist is extremely helpful and will call a taxi for Chisoon so we can meet at a half way point today. She is very pleased when told by Chisoon that she looks like the subject in a Botticelli painting.

Castrojeriz: this boutique hotel, a seven-floor house, is impeccably decorated with personalized service

The air is cool and fresh. From the hotel balcony, a moderate-sized hill with the Camino etched on it is visible. Shortly after leaving Castrojeriz, at the top of the hill I say a quick hello to Beniya San from Nagoya and the young French carpenter, both old friends by now. The scenery back toward Castrojeriz is nice but what lies ahead? After a bit of flat terrain, a magnificent vista opens up to the west with a clear path for the pilgrims visible. This is probably one of the most pleasant morning walks, not only on the Camino but ever. My pace is quick and I am even beginning to understand those who seem to walk very fast to the next albergue. I used to scratch my head about them, especially last year. One can indeed enjoy a fast walk.

Leaving Castrojeriz, the Camino up the hill ahead is seen.

Looking back at Castrojeriz half way up the hill toward Alto Mosterales

Looking ahead to the west from top of Alto Mosterales: Camino clearly visible

A steady stream of pilgrims: we are all going somewhere, more or less in the same direction. And we will all get there eventually. A great metaphor for life.

Some colors ahead

a small town not directly on Camino

Puente de Otero over the river Pisuerga, historical boundary between Castile and Leon. We are soon in the province of Palencia.

As I near Itero de la Vega, the taxi carrying Chisoon is passing me by. Perfect timing again, and I did 11km in about 2 hours and 15 minutes. A German lady who shared a taxi ride with Chisoon has heart trouble and we help her contact her tour leader.
At the town entrance, a woman passes out flyers for her bar, a rare behavior on the Camino, but I feel like rewarding her for her efforts and we pass the first bar and settle into her bar and have lunch there. Most of the tables are occupied by those we know already - the Philadelphia couple, the Canadian pilot, the Newfoundland lady, the Magdeburg couple and the New Zealand couple!

After lunch, it is an easy stroll through a gently undulating terrain and subtle colors. I still love the Meseta! Province of Palencia is traditionally an agricultural center aided by a network of canals. We stop at a charming albergue for a drink in Boadilla, and soon it is a very nice walk on a tree lined trail and then along the old Canal de Castilla.

Past Itero

Landscape with shades of brown and green...

and mild undulation

Looking back toward Itero: subtleties of color are evident even in mid-afternoon sun

Looking back more

Pilgrims at a water wheel at an albergue near Boadilla

Boadilla: we stop for a drink at an albergue with a nice garden

Boadilla: En El Camino albergue overlooked by Santa Maria church

After Boadilla, Camino is tree-lined.

This haystack has gone haywire.

Last section leading to Fromista is along the 18th century Canal de Castilla.

Fromista is a sizable town, and we just follow the Camino until we reach the important San Martin church, right in front of which is its namesake hotel, where we will stay. This is one of the places I had some trouble booking ahead, and the choice was mainly because of the location. The church, a national monument, is an excellent example of the Romanesque style. When we visit, there is a wedding going on. We hang out to watch it a bit.
At dinner, I learned that this is the 800th anniversary of St. Francis visiting Santiago. I happen to order trout but without the knowledge that Franciscans pay tribute to St. Martin with trout owing to the legend of Cotolay who built a convent in Santiago for St Francis and also cured his blindness. This, in a San Martin restaurant. Quite coincidental. We run into the German lady with heart trouble earlier and she looks better. She thanks Chisoon profusely for helping out. She looks better but will be going to Bilbao to fly back home.