Saturday, October 18, 2014

Day 25 (Camino II): Leon

The morning after I completed the Camino Frances, looking out the hotel window into Plaza Santa Maria del Camino in Leon, I am still amazed by how the starting point became the end point. For most people the Camino is one way, and by the time they reach the end in Santiago (or Finisterre), the starting point may be a distant memory.  Because of the way we split the route into two sections, Leon was the starting point last year and the end point this year. Fortuitously, where we got the credentials and hung the scallop shells last year, which we consider our starting spot, turned out to be the same location we stayed overnight after the completion. So this spot is our Ground Zero, if you will: GPS42.595278,-5.56812.

Most people experience some evolution of thought during the course of the walk. But for me, literally looking down on where it all started with a wider perspective now is an incredible metaphor for the transformation in many ways between the two time points. I am proud that I have walked every single kilometer of the 800km (500 miles) of Camino Frances from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago. I am equally thankful that I only lost a lens cap and not a limb!

Ground Zero: this ledge at Plaza Santa Maria Del Camino is where we got credentials and scallop shells last year. After completing the Camino, we are now looking down on the spot from our hotel.

Instead of scallop shells, this little gourd walked with us this year.

Last night, we got to see the interior of Leon Cathedral which we didn't last year. The dinner was right on the cathedral plaza with Sunjin who enthusiastically returned from Astorga just to say good bye.

Leon Cathedral: renowned for its stained glass


Leon Cathedral: altar seen through the choir and the retrochoir screen

Leon Cathedral: more stained glass in this gothic structure
 
 
Our Lady of Consolation: One of many medieval statues of the virgin with the child, this one in the cloisters of Leon Cathedral is from 13th century



Dinner at an outdoors table near the cathedral: Paella that could feed twice the size of our party is only one of the five courses

Leon Cathedral at night
 
This morning, bags are packed but without the tag for daily luggage transfer. I am wearing regular socks instead of SmartWool.

We have a few hours to explore a bit more of Leon, and this time we are doing it as tourists. No need for Buen Camino for us. We were so impressed with San Isidro last year we visit its museum again, which also leads to the cloisters and the royal pantheon. A block away is Gaudi's building, which is now a bank.

A ten minute walk (not paying attention to the Camino!) takes us to San Marcos, which is of course where the priceless Parador is. We admire its façade one more time. There is a wedding going on in the Parador museum which probably cost a pretty penny.

Just a short walk away is the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Leon. It's a nice bookend splurge on this trip with the front end back in SJPdP. When they open for lunch at 1:30pm, we are the only customers but by 3pm the small but excellent restaurant is in full swing. It's a great 7-course meal at a fraction of what it would cost in the States. After dropping us off at the Renfe train station, the nice taxi driver bids us Buen Viaje and we board the train bound to Chamartin Station in Madrid.


San Isidro Basilica: Door of Pardon on right and the museum complex on left, which we wanted to see again this year

San Isidro Basilica: cloisters are next to the museum and pantheon with medieval ceiling paintings dubbed Spanish Romanesque Sistine Chapel (no photos allowed)
 
Gaudi's Casa de Botines


The façade of the Leon Parador never gets old.
 
A wedding at the Leon Parador


Multi-course lunch at Cocinandos to celebrate the completion of Camino: Leek with mushroom

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