Day 8 (Camino II) Estella to Los Arcos

We happen to ask the receptionist at our hotel if he is Basque. He said no, and the way he described how this region is Navarra but not part of the Basque country is a reminder to be careful with this sensitive and complex subject. We have also heard that Estella historically was a stronghold of Carlists, conservative royalists. At breakfast we run into the couple from Georgia we had met in Roncesvalles. They are in their 70s and the wife is so immaculately dressed (and made up) some people have joked that she is probably walking the trails in high heels. As we congratulate them for doing well, the husband says, "I have a secret weapon. It's called a taxi." Well, it's not such a secret, is it.

Estella in the morning: looking out the window of our hotel room, we see a local scene with the dominating St Miguel Church. (We are told later that at last night's mass here, each of a handful of pilgrims was blessed individually by the priest.)

Just outside Estella, there is a place that all pilgrims seem to talk about. It's in Irache, and it is called a wine fountain. Free wine, that is. Everyone is indeed stopping by - free stuff seems always welcome on the Camino. Just beyond that point is a monastery which most people seem to give a miss. But I need to check it out because of a scene in "The Way." Fortunately the church is open through which we access the cloisters, and if I am not mistaken, this indeed looks like the place where a bunch of peregrinos slept in the movie.

Approaching the now closed Irache Monastery

"Wine fountain" at Bodegas Irache: free wine on tap! Most people fill their bottles to the brim, but this man seems a little desperate.

Cloisters at Irache Monastery: one of these corridors was the scene of an array of peregrino beds in "The Way."

 Past Azqueta is a steady uphill to the midpoint, Villamayor de Monjardin. We stop for lunch and are joined by a Canadian elderly woman from New Brunswick who shed 100 pounds before coming to the Camino. She is taking it very slowly and doing the Camino over 9 weeks. It is just my hunch that she will be able to finish the entire route. By contrast, we hear that a young lady from Scotland who looked fit had so many blisters on her feet has quit and is returning home. You just never know. At the next table, a group of Irish women in their sixties are having a great time with sangria flowing.

My old friend, "White Cliffs of Dover," seen again.

What's this, Mt. Fuji in Navarra? Oh, no, this is where we are heading up today, Monjardin. (actually I am corrected by an Irish lady who has been here before - Villamayor de Monjardin is located half way up, not at the top.)

View of Azqueta. What I dubbed "Mt Fuji of Navarra" is again seen on right.



Symmetric vines decorating the house.

13th century "Fountain of the Moors," just before Villamayor de Monjardin begins. Briefly's book has a different but nice picture of the double arch.

Villamayor: San Andres Church blends well with the cypress trees.

It is getting quite warm in the afternoon and we hit a stretch of close to 9km without a town before reaching our destination. I feel weird physically which I can only describe as being drowsy while my legs just keep moving. A little bit of electrolyte supplement in my water while resting perks me up a bit. Chisoon is doing quite well, while resorting to her trademarks - an umbrella in the sun and a handkerchief over her face to fend off bugs which along with her hat and dark sunglasses makes her look like a terrorist.

Looking back on Villamayor. Castillo on Monjardin again seen.

Another town seen from but not located on the Camino. There is a 9 km stretch leading to Los Arcos with no bars selling food and drinks.

a difficult stretch but attractive scenery helps you move along

A large haystack provides a shadow and therefore a good place to rest.

Los Arcos is a pretty small town, and toward the end of Calle Mayor, we find our hotel. But not before passing through the square in front of Church of St. Mary of the Arches, where many peregrinos and locals congregate. 

Los Arcos: Calle Mayor is quiet, this kid being the only action...

... until we reach the church square which bustles with locals and peregrinos.