Camino de Santiago LITE: Day 10 (Camino II): Logrono to Najera

By distance, today's stage is the longest at 29 km. Chisoon will take a taxi to Navarrete (at 12 km) and we will walk together from there to Najera. Getting out of Logrono, like any other big city, requires concentration. I am soon joined by a couple from Philadelphia starting their middle portion (Logrono to Leon) of their planned three-part Camino, a man from Massachusetts, and a lady from Sydney. I cannot keep up with the Australian, who is trying to finish the Camino in 30 days. (Even though she has just retired from Oracle, she has to finish on time to attend her friend's 60th birthday.) "I do 10 km before breakfast." It is an understandable strategy given the hot afternoon weather, but one we would never adopt.

The hotel's elevators are not that precarious fortunately. Logrono is the capital of La Rioja, a region known for its wine production.

Leaving Logrono: waymarkers in the city can be elusive (this one is very clear), but when in doubt you can just let those in front of you do all the work.

Leaving Logrono: locals cheering for... us, I'd like to think

Carp at the reservoir

Wooden crosses along the highway: although the surroundings are not as attractive as some collections we saw last year, this goes on a long while - there are probably thousands of these at this location.

Navarrete comes into view. Pilgrims weaving through vineyards.

The rendezvous is a success again, although the bar we were supposed to meet at is closed and we were both walking up and down a bit looking for each other. One disadvantage of walking in the off/shoulder season is that not all the facilities may be open. We take a quick look at the cathedral, have a simple lunch, and move on.

Entering Navarrete

Navarrete: Church of the Assumption is illuminated while we are looking around - someone must have put a coin in the box.

Navarrete: a 13th century entrance to a medieval monastery has been moved to this cemetery. Part of the carvings depicts the battle between Roland and Ferragut.

On the 17km stretch between Navarrete to Najera there are no towns and therefore no place to eat or drink. We walk along vineyards that never seem to end. No exciting events such as encounters with Ramon (or his old stomping ground) and caterpillars like yesterday. It is fortunately a better day t walk than yesterday - the air is cooler and there is a breeze. However, I am struggling a bit and it looks like my body is a little worn out after covering 36 miles in two days. I also notice my first foot blister. After a long rest in the shade, I seem to get a second wind.

Grapes galore: endless vineyards

A rare covered resting place: after being recumbent and semi-conscious for 20 minutes, I feel refreshed.

Are they so happy to see us?

Poyo Roldan (Roland's Hill): this is where Roland supposedly defeated the giant Ferragut with the nose of the size of a palm

Pilgrims poem (aka graffiti): Pilger, wer ruft dich? (Pilgrim, who is calling you?)

Najera sprawls a bit, but the old town is compact. We easily find our hotel, which is rather modest, but at half the price of the one in Logrono, we can't complain. Plus we receive critical information that Monasterio Santa Maria de la Real closes in 10 minutes. We throw down our stuff and a complementary wind bottle in our room and basically run the 100m to this town's main attraction. We pay the 3 Euro admission, which will surely be a barrier for many pilgrims, and enter to admire the beautiful stone work at the cloisters, the splendid royal pantheon, and the statue of Virgin Mary linked with the founding of this old capital of the Navarra kingdom.
During a simple dinner by the river, we have a nice conversation with a 75 year old man from Nagoya, Japan, who is also doing the middle portion of his planned three-stage Camino. When I show him some pictures I just took at the Monasterio though, he does not seem that interested.