Camino de Santiago LITE: Day 24 (Camino II): Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon

There is something about a walled town that I have always liked. It looks cool on the map but also in many cases the wall has kept out modern encroachment. Here the medieval streets are still lively rather than simply austere. The room was warm overnight in contrast to the night before, reflecting the warmth of this hostal in Mansilla de las Mulas, which roughly means "hands on saddle of the mules," Spanglish perhaps. Another term I thought was lost in translation is "cheeks," which is what I had as a main dish last night. But that term actually turns out to be the correct description of Carrillada. By now we have had both the pork and beef versions. Why a flavorful meat preparation that melts in your mouth is not more popular in the U.S. or the rest of the world, I don't know, but vegans surely would not mind. I was curious about the restaurant La Curiosa that had been recommended to us and most people who gathered for dinner were already familiar to us.

It was a bit shocking to find out that Mr Brierley, the purest of the purists, actually suggests taking a bus to Leon from here as a viable option in his book. Since we started in Leon last year, I never realized then that in the section for the stage before Leon he devotes a couple of paragraphs on why it is okay and should not be looked upon as a "pilgrim cheat", etc. He mentions "the ego and its obsessive behavioral patterns" referring to those who insist on walking the whole route. But who is talking? Even though I have designed this journey to be a LITE one, I am determined to walk every kilometer and I have just one day left. But some people are taking his advice and taking the bus, including Bruce. We say good bye to him, Agnes, as well as Juergen and Renate, a sweet elderly German couple who have endeared themselves to us and with whom Chisoon exchanges gifts in a heartfelt farewell.

Mansilla de las Mules: Plaza Mayor

Mansilla: small but cozy lobby of our hostal

Mansilla: view from our room - a small courtyard with grapevine and Santa Maria Church

Mansilla: our family-run hostal

Mansilla: a pharmacy-converted restaurant

A carnivorous discovery: Carrillada (cheeks)

It is a sunny beautiful morning and the first time in over a week we don't have to worry about the rain gear. We are soon on the senda next to the highway and the heavy traffic is quite distracting. We stop for our usual protein supplement at a bar at the entrance of Puente Villarente where an enthusiastic host is a delight.

a large cornfield on Camino leaving Mansilla

Senda starting parallel to the highway

Bar at Puente Villarente: cheerful host serving an omelette with highest tuna content we have seen

Another sighting of a creative contraption

The route now goes through or skirts around some of the urban areas but is pleasant enough. As we get close to Leon, the waymarks are clear and direct us safely away from dangers of the car traffic. So the reputation of this stage as uninteresting or hazardous seems unjustified. At the last break before entering the old town, the server adds some tapas to our drinks for free and a gentleman approaches us to say, "Welcome to our city!" So far so good.

Villarente: A senior center. This town may be just another stop on the map but it is no small town with a population of 100. It's a large satellite of Leon.

A church in the wild? No, it is very close to the hustle and bustle of Valdelafuente which the Camino skirts around. Last year, we saw this type of church often in this region with a stork nest right on top, midline.

A large pilgrim bridge: Leon is visible in distance.

A sign welcoming pilgrims to Leon

As we try to find our hotel in the center, some streets and structures look familiar from last year. We pass by Santa Maria Convent/albergue and we remember that's where we got our credentials last year. Not knowing what to expect, we were just surprised then by the line of young pilgrims as the albergue opened. I booked a random hotel in a central location this time, but I didn't know exactly where ours is located. Amazingly, the hotel is basically in the same building as the convent! Talk about coming full circle! This total coincidence is enough to excuse the hotel clerk's gaffe to motion initially for us to go to the next entrance which is for the albergue. Looking out our room window, memories flood back: the double arrows that led us into the nuns issuing the credentials, the ledge where we put our scallop shells onto our backpacks... We now head to the Cathedral.