Day 15 (Camino II): Burgos

It's good to open the window and see the cathedral fill the frame. It's also good that we have a rest day today, although it doesn't mean we would be resting in the hotel.
We had reserved a tour to the Atapuerca archeological site 15 km from Burgos. Yes, that is the same Atapuerca we passed yesterday (start of a tough uphill). And the site of earliest Europeans which were discovered only in the last few decades. The tour leaves from Museum of Human Evolution about a 5 minute walk from the hotel. It is only in Spanish (why would they not have a tour in English at this UNESCO heritage site?), so we figured we should get some idea from the exhibits at the award-winning museum here beforehand.

Burgos Cathedral at sunrise

Breakfast with a view

 

Museum of Human Evolution, Burgos: Excellent museum displaying the finds from Atapuerca and other information

The guide fortunately speaks good English. Although we would have been content with communicating with him about logistics such as skipping the last part of the tour, he actually takes the trouble to have a short version of his spiel to us in English while 30 plus Spaniards are waiting. We see the dig sites where hominids dating back as far back as 1.3 million years were found, who make Neanderthals look almost ultra-modern. With the help of a kind Spanish man in the tour group, we call a taxi to take us from Ibeas de Juarros back to Burgos.
It was drizzling all day but it pours during our taxi ride, lets up when we get off, pours again while we are having lunch, and lets up again while we are walking back to the hotel. I know we are going to pay for this good fortune, maybe as early as tomorrow, since there is a rain in the forecast again.



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Atapuerca: visitors to the archeological site seem excited just to put on the helmet.

Atapuerca: a pit where remains of hominids 1.3 million years were discovered, making them by far the earliest Europeans

Atapuerca: behind the guide is a cave used by hominids, Homo Heiderbergensis, to trap animals 500,000 years ago

Atapuerca: Gran Dolina site. in sedimentary layers, TD6 and TD10, remains of Homo Antecessor from 850,000 years ago and Homo Heidelbergensis, respectively, were found along with evidence of cannibalism

Atapuerca: our guide seems to joke a lot. Being a soccer fan, I did understand "Futbolista Puyol."

Back in Burgos: lunch with a view. Avoiding a whipping rain.

 

Burgos Cathedral: being soaked by rain, only on the outside of course

The reason we skipped the visit to Archeological Theme Park and returned early to Burgos is to have enough time to visit the Cathedral the second time. It is overwhelming. Size, the details, and quality of work. It is basically a large museum from an art point of view, and a testament to history as it was built up over the centuries incorporating a multitude of styles.  Many of its 21 chapels are the size of small churches. I have seen a number of European cathedrals, but this is something else. Of course, for all its splendor and opulence, the other side of the coin is excess and exploitation.

Burgos Cathedral: main altar

Burgos Cathedral: Cross tower, an octagonal structure supported by four very solid columns

And directly under the cross tower is the tomb of El Cid and his wife

And facing the tomb is the Choir



Burgos Cathedral: Golden Staircase

Burgos Cathedral: One of the opulent chapels, Constables'

Burgos Cathedral: another gem of a chapel, St. Thecla is reserved for prayers and not tourists

Burgos Cathedral: upper cloisters

El Cid for the kid

El Cid, a more serious portrayal, near the exit of Burgos Cathedral

The rain has stopped and it is a peaceful evening. Our hotel room window is like a table at a sidewalk café. Just look down and people watching is great. Tour groups and pilgrims going every which way. One last visual feast at the St Nicolas Church right next to our hotel. Chisoon's not feeling well and I go take out some food at a restaurant on the square which I think may have been the place where the gypsy boy steals the backpack in "The Way." I will have to watch it yet one more time to confirm.

All in all, a great day experiencing two UNESCO heritage sites without getting too wet. Tomorrow is not going to be like that, and in fact it will be just a matter of surviving the likely rain.

St Nicolas Church, steps away from the Cathedral: Stunning altar. Dropped coin. Illumination. Priest turns on holy music.

Burgos Cathedral: The sun's peeking out again.

Burgos Cathedral: at dusk