Epilogue

Well, some people moved on to Finisterre, but Santiago was the end of the road for us. (If I had been at Finisterre and followed the tradition of burning clothes, I would have picked the one pair of pants which I packed as an afterthought but ended up wearing everyday! Washed several times of course, they served me well in both the hot weather and the drizzle.)



The primary candidate for burning at Finisterre, these were the only pair of pants I ended up needing. I packed too much warm clothing.)

We flew from Santiago to Barcelona to spend a day there. Although the latter is a wonderful destination with great sights and welcoming people and it was nice in some ways to be back to civilization, we could not help but compare the realities of modern life to what we experienced on the Camino. And the comparison was mostly colored by fond memories of the Camino. We are now back in the States, and we feel like being in the post-Camino state now rather than post-Spain.

A satisfaction survey usually include questions, "Would you return?" and "Would you recommend to your friends and family?" My answers to these questions are resounding yes and yes. The fact that we only covered a part makes it natural to contemplate returning to complete the entire Camino Frances. In fact, we already started to discuss when and which portion to return to. There is definitely something addictive about the Camino, and we will see if there are any withdrawal symptoms!

Now some specifics.

The walk: overall it was about what I expected in terms of physical demand. What was a bit surprising was the unevenness of difficulty in different sections. This actually only applies if you have pre-booked all accommodations beforehand, which is of course what the traditional peregrino does not do or even may despise. But as first timers on the Camino seeking comfort and security, we did it the right way for us and appreciate the flawless job Macs Adventure and Tee Travel did. When we return (and it is not a matter of “if”), we will try to pick each stage according to our own ability and also book lodging ourselves. And utilizing the luggage transfer service will be key to keeping the return trip LITE. Motorized options for transportation will of course be considered when necessary. As people say, this is YOUR Camino.

A luggage transfer service can be a welcome relief to the weary peregrino.

Foot/leg health: it was surprising to see so many people with one ailment/ injury or another sustained on the Camino and yet they just kept going. There were also many who came despite existing physical conditions. My observations are that a tremendous motivation carries them through, but some of them could have been better prepared before coming to the Camino.

Food: it was an absolute delight that food was readily available, tasty, and cheap. Combined with inexpensive lodging costs, for those seeking a walking holiday, the Camino is a European destination with Third World prices. Although it may be a sad reflection of the local economy, the true peregrinos may be the ones keeping the cost down. Who knows how long it will last?

Love it or hate it - the ubiquitous three-course menu. We loved it, while trying to exercise moderation.

Scenery: for many stages, not only the varied landscape but also the numerous little towns were thoroughly enjoyable.  I had previously thought that a walking tour would be very inefficient in terms of covering sights but on the other hand had also been frustrated on numerous occasions, even on private tours, to watch fascinating scenery and people teasingly pass by through the car window.  The Camino provided the opportunity for directly experiencing what was in-between those typical tourist stops.

Weather: we were extremely lucky not to have any sustained downpour. Whether it is a cause or an effect of our luck, Chisoon found over 40 four-leaf and three five-leaf clovers.

Nine four-leaf clovers on this day alone

 People: the locals were genuinely hospitable and they felt to us like they were another component of the entire organic Camino. And last but not least, our fellow walkers/peregrinos, who to some are the most important element of the Camino experience. Some were aggressively friendly, and some aloof, but when approached, all opened up. It was as if people got there through a pre-selection process and they were bound by a common purpose.

 Here are pictures of the people we interacted with at some level, who definitely made up part of our experience and will be in our memory.

 

 

 

 

Day 16: Santiago de Compostela

Casa de la Troya is a delightful boutique hotel close to the cathedral. An old Spanish novel based on a house at this location has been added to my very long to-do list.

The Galician soft cheese with quince jam is often served at breakfast.

There was a heavy downpour overnight but when we headed out, the rain had stopped. My feet were burning last night but they felt much better this morning as if I had not walked all that distance. We felt it was just going to be a great day. First stop, the certification office. The line was not long probably because we went as soon as they opened at 9AM.

The Japanese lady behind us in line walked alone all the way From St. Jean and arrived early this morning.

 

 

Back at the Cathedral Plaza, there is always great people watching.



The pilgrim team with the most character, hands down.

Even though it was long before the noon mass, we decided to check out the interior of the Cathedral. It was pretty empty so we could easily visit St. James' casket in the crypt and climb up to the high altar where the pilgrims can hug the Saint from behind.

However, the main entrance was blocked off so there was no access to the famed Portico de Gloria (Door of Glory). This is where pilgrims approach the central column and touch it while kneeling as they enter the Cathedral. So much for the emotional entrance (not for us necessarily but for others which we could have witnessed.)

But wait, there is a sign that with a guided tour you can gain access, so we purchase tickets for an English tout at 1:10PM. (They cost 8 euros each after a discount for pilgrims.) This tour would be between the mass and a lunch at the Parador. What a fine plan. Furthermore, we discover that we can go beyond the roped-in area now and start exploring. We feel quite privileged to be on the other side of the rope from the rest of the visitors who are starting to enter the Cathedral in increasing numbers.



The view of the central column of Glory Portico from within the restricted area. You can see the worn surface on the bottom of the column from centuries' touching by the pilgrims. Can you make out the five finger marks?



Self-sculpture by Mateo, who built the Portico in late 12th century.  The tradition is for the pilgrims to rub their foreheads against his. This head-butting is for transfer of wisdom, but it appears to be no longer allowed.

We then went back to the hotel to pack and check out. When we returned at 11:20AM, the Cathedral was already packed!



It was standing room only, or bottom-of-column only, well before the noon mass.

I did notice that there was a small incense burner hanging but did not think too much of it.  When I  checked in the book the picture of the Botafumeiro, it looked the same as the one hanging, and I was thinking at that point that maybe they have a small replica out. But I am keeping some hope alive.

But then, toward the end of the mass, six men in red robes come out and start untying the ropes off the column. This is happening in full view in front of me sitting on the left side which I had read is the best location for viewing the Botafumeiro. My heart is racing and I frantically start shooting while trying to position myself optimally and take out my video camera as well. As the incense-filled burner starts to swing, I hear ooh's and ah's with camera clicks. This is during a mass? Yes, but oh, it is the swinging of the Botafumeiro! It was difficult to obtain accurate information before we left home, and here people have told me that it occurs reliably on Fridays and some Sundays. But they probably don't want pilgrims to cherry-pick the day to come to the mass, would they?  Regardless,  it appears that someone was generous enough to donate and make it happen. It was a spectacle indeed, happening inside a centuries-old cathedral packed with visitors and weary pilgrims many of whom with huge backpacks and some still wearing wet ponchos. This deserves a series of pictures in this post.



Men getting the Botafumeiro ready

Start

Swinging

 

And swinging

And swinging

 

End

After the mass, the Cathedral cleared quickly, as if all pilgrims, yet again, moved on with a purpose. Finisterre? Lunch? It turned out that we were the only people on the English tour. The guide was excellent and the surprise element was that she took us onto the scaffolding built for restoring Glory Portico. It was fantastic to be able to see the details of the carvings while walking on the scaffolding. All this for 8 euros! Best value for any tour, bar none.

The tour started with computer graphics of The Portico



Up close. Left side of Glory Portico

The center of Glory Portico from the scaffolding. You can see the top of the center column.

Essentially a private tour. Once the restoration is completed and the scaffolding removed (who knows when), this won't be possible. What an opportunity.



Apostles. From the scaffolding.

Lunch was at the Parador right on the Cathedral Plaza. That completed the bookend lunch splurges at the paradors, at Leon to start and at Santiago to end.





The Santiago Parador

What a great day and a great way to finish the Camino.



Chisoon's pilgrim certificate

 

Day 15: Rua to Santiago de Compostela

 

On our final leg today, I am certainly not on my last legs. I had entertained the possibility of leaving early so we can make the mass at noon. It looked like an attractive idea to be at the pilgrim mass on the same day that we arrive in Santiago. However, it appears that most people don't do it unless they spend the last night at a closer location. Given our track record for speed, or the lack thereof, in order to cover 20 km and have enough time to get the certificate, we'd have to leave well before 6AM.

So we left the peacefully quiet town of Rua after a leisurely breakfast which usually starts no earlier than 7:30AM in most hotels on the Camino.

The mid morning break was a bit early today at Amenal.



Corn harvesting, mom and pop style, near Amenal

Near Amenal



This man's obviously conflicted. He chose to ignore his inner voice and trust the old sign on the marker instead, the correct decision. (Actually, what was on his back turned out to be a logo for a tour company. It could be confusing to the weary pilgrim behind him.)



On the way to San Paio. One of the nicest shell sculptures we have seen. No crowds as most people have passed us - our strategy working!



Near Lavacolla. No smell from these roses?

 

 

In Lavacolla. It's been a glorious morning indeed.



 

Why not? This man from Bavaria has pulled it all the way from St. Jean Pied de Port. He said maybe 500 people have taken a picture of him on the Camino.

 

As we got closer to the hill where the pilgrims in the past would get a first glimpse of the spires of the Santiago cathedral, I wanted to make sure we get there while the weather was still good, which delayed our lunch. Alas, at Monte de Gozo, the view was only of the Santiago suburbs. This is also the site of a memorial to celebrate Pope John Paul II's visit. Boy, did he travel.

Upon entering the old city, with our anticipation growing, we were right behind the Spanish couple from Madrid whom we had seen struggling earlier and who were two of the very few moving slower than us. When the top of one of the spires came in view as we walked down Rua de San Pedro, they were in tears. A reenactment of a medieval scene, I suppose.

So there we were, in the Cathedral Plaza in Santiago finally. I have walked every single one of the 300 or so kilometers. Chisoon has done most. Not needing to do anything once we arrived at the Cathedral except checking at the hotel a couple of minutes away, we sat down on the square for a while and admired the façade. How can any one be disappointed? It is not the grandest or the most esthetic, but its weather-worn face has witnessed pilgrims and their stories for centuries. And people-watching meant recognizing faces from the walk with occasional congratulatory hugs.




We are finally here. Santiago Cathedral. The sun came out. Chisoon's doing the splits. All is well.

Another reason I had thought about attending today's mass, in addition to tomorrow's, was to increase the odds for witnessing the Botafumeiro (swinging of the incense burner), which I understand is infrequently performed. Chances are that it won't happen tomorrow. We ate dinner at a restaurant with the same name, as a consolation in advance. One of the dishes was scallops. We are now living, breathing and eating Santiago.

Sea scallops. Before...

And after.

After dinner, the sun had set, and we went back to Praza do Obradoiro. (Why is there L-R confusion here? We are not in Japan!)

Day 14: Arzua to Rua (O Pedrouzo)

 

We took our time leaving  Arzua, as it was “only” a 20 km day.

A mid-morning stop at A Calzada brought us some familiar faces but also an update on yesterday’s accidents. The ladies are recovering and the Australian family that we have seen almost daily did what we thought about doing when we witnessed the falls. They made a warning sign and put it on a tree. They grabbed a menu board from an albergue and turned it into a sign using four languages. A kind act appropriate for the Camino.

 

An impromptu warning sign at the site of the accidents yesterday. A fine example of random act of kindness. This photo was e-mailed to me by an Australian teenager.

 

Then it was a leisurely walk the rest of the morning.

One of many tree tunnels



Fuchsia-strewn Camino




Chestnut-strewn Camino

After a lunch stop at Salceda, it was less than two hours to our destination. A short distance before Rua is Santa Irene Church which opens only once a year.

Santa Irene Church: we met the Argentinians again. We were surprised to find out they are already mothers of 3, 4 and 5 children.

Hydrangea is commonly seen in the front of homes in Galicia, unlike in Castilla y Leon where geranium and petunia adorn every house. There were fruits for the peregrinos here without a donativo box.



Eucalyptus grove just before arriving at Rua

Here’s my little reflection on this eve of the last day of walk. Mr. Brierley lists a clock, a camera and a mobile phone as items to leave behind. I of course brought all three. I am fine with letting nature’s cues dictate my day, but in the middle of nowhere, you may need your own. As for a camera, I told someone that I would rather lose my passport than my camera. Enough said. And my smart phone and my tablet are what allow me to post my blog daily. Even without your personal communication devices, it may be difficult to escape sensational news on the Camino. Last week, during my rest stop at a café, there was continuous TV coverage of a murder in Santiago.

All the gadgets I brought being plugged into a single outlet. Mr. Brierley would be horrified.