Day 7: Villafranca to Herrerias

What started out as some pain in the ball of Chisoon's right foot had gotten much worse by last night to the point where she could not bear much weight on either foot. This morning it was not much better after some Advil. It is not clear whether it was just a skin irritation or that wastebasket term of metatarsalgia, but needless to say she could not walk today (and most likely tomorrow when there is a mountain to climb). She was soon joined for a taxi ride by the Jersey lady and the Pennsylvania team of two women, who were all wiped out by the long walk yesterday (over 30 km, or 19 miles). Collectively their ailments involve the knees, the Achilles tendon, and the feet.

After consuming the breakfast that a very friendly lady at our hotel brought to our room, I set out well past 9AM, down the steep path to Plaza Mayor of Villafranca. It seemed all the pilgrims, especially those who are going all the way to O'Cebreiro today have left and the tourists have not arrived yet (yes, I have seen tourist buses at various points along the Camino), so I seemed to have the whole town to myself before getting out.




Villafranca: a quiet morning as I walk out of the hotel




Villafranca: Plaza Mayor with locals only

It turned out to be probably the easiest day ironically when Chisoon is taking a rest. I did get lost a couple of times by ignoring obvious signs which added a couple of kilometers. Solitude can be a distraction. (I had mostly myself to contend with, other than a stretch where I walked with an Italian man who likes San Francisco.)

It was relatively easy because
1) the route described by Brierley from Villafranca to O'Cebreiro as a single section was split into two by our agency, a very sensible thing to do, which leave only 20 some km of relatively flat terrain for today,
2) as I discovered last night, the recommended route involving a climb of about 1000 ft is not the only option, and in fact most people seem to choose the easier path going around the mountain,
3) there was some cloud cover and the sun was not as strong as in the past several days.

I still needed plenty of fluid along the way. Everyday, I have gulped down several sodas, typically Fanta (or Kas) Naranja or Limon. It's the first time I am drinking cold sodas since I stopped them cold a few years ago.

 




A cemetery near Pereje

 



An albergue ad containing a Korean flag. And they serve a Korean dish?



A vegetarian restaurant in Trabadelo, recommended to me for lunch, was closed. So I had a sandwich at the albergue next door. The pilgrim's menu seems to be of better value.



Siesta in Vega de Valcarce

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Doors of a bridge, or a bridge of doors? (near Herrerias)

 

No, they are not simulating the pilgrims with their heads down. (near Herrerias)

Arrived at our hotel in Herreiras before 4pm, which gave me an added advantage of having time to explore. The stroll through town was a most peaceful experience. You could almost close your eyes while walking, just listening to the flow of the river and other sounds of nature. The only things you have to watch out for are cow dung on the road and occasional chickens crossing!





Herrerias is distinctly rural.



Herrerias



Herrerias

At dinner, we enjoyed conversation with people from Germany, Finland, Italy, Spain, and the States in the small dining room. We get into Galicia tomorrow. It remains to be seen whether I will have to deal with the rain walking up the mountain.

Day 6: Molinaseca to Villafranca del Bierzo

A couple of hours after leaving Molinaseca, we arrived in Ponferrada, a modern city of moderate size, which makes it a bit challenging to get in and out. I have become sufficiently proficient with reading the maps and instructions given in Brierley's book so that I could find a shortcut into town relatively easily. (For any great compact book refined over time, you need to pay attention to every word and notation with complete trust). Even though the walkers passing by expressed doubt when I veered off the standard route, I successfully guided ourselves and a newly acquired companion from New Jersey to the old town. (She planned to walk the first three-quarters and then take a taxi for the final ascent to Villafranca. It is still admirable for someone to walk that much who is scheduled to have bilateral knee replacements when she returns home.)

Ponferrada has a number of historic sights in the medieval part of the city. We thought about waiting a few minutes until the Castle of the Templars opened at 10AM, while hot chocolate and churros beckoned from across the street. What to do if we spend the next 15 minutes here? We did neither - everyone walking past us with a seeming purpose and the knowledge that we have a long day ahead made us push on.



Castle of the Templars, Ponferrada, competed for my attention with the following.

After Camponaraya, a half-way point where we had lunch, the route ascends slightly through vineyards.



Grapes within reach; the pilgrims are either very honest or well-fed. Forget the ubiquitous 10-euro menu del dia - we just passed a cooperative where wine tasting with pincho costs 1.5 euro (50% more expensive than stated in the guidebook - what a rip-off!)

Cacabelos could have made a more reasonable destination for the day, as the final 10 km to Villafranca has pretty difficult ups and downs in the afternoon heat. Many of the rolling hills through the vineyards are reminiscent of Napa Valley. A woman from Belgium asked yesterday at Cruz de Ferro, "Why did you come so far? There must be so many nice places to hike in California." It is a good question on an afternoon like we had today. Chisoon stated that a walking holiday has rapidly turned into a penance.

 

The TV programs have been somewhat lacking (no CNN, no BBC), but I was willing to try this apparent new invention if we had stayed in Cacabelos,

 

This small church in Cacabelos is one of many places where you can get your pilgrim's passport stamped. A lady from Pennsylvania was fascinated by these stamps and collected 30 in 3 days. I suggested she contact the Guinness Book of World Records.



From one of the hills approaching Villafranca

At 7:15PM, we finally arrived at the hotel, a seven-room place with a great name of La Puerta de Perdon (the Door of Forgiveness), same as that of the adjacent entrance to Church of Santiago where in medieval times pilgrims who could not go on to Santiago received absolution.

Day 5: Rabanal to Molinaseca

Today's challenge was supposed to be the altitude change, as we go up and down a mountain. The elevation gain during the initial ascent, as far as I can figure out, is a little over 300m (1000 ft). So it's like going up to the Vernal Falls from Yosemite Valley, except the route is stretched over a longer distance. Not a problem.




Leaving Rabanal. After some consideration, we brought just one hiking pole from home. Even though it is not a classic long wooden staff, it came handy on a day like today.

Predictably by now, we stopped at the first village for a drink before continuing the ascent. Foncebadon is an abandoned village now coming back to life to support the pilgrims. We met an elderly American man who was waiting for an albergue there to open. He got sick last night at Rabanal from what sounded like food poisoning or a stomach virus. He took a taxi this morning to get up to Foncebadon. It appears that not being able to complete a walk, even for a segment, can certainly have a psychological effect. Who knows whether it will happen to us. I think it is no shame to do just what your body (and mind) allow you to do here, even though it falls short of your original goal. We tried to assure him that it will pass soon and gave him some alcohol wipes we had, which is all we could contribute.



Fondebadon: A previously abandoned town. The piped-in Gregorian chants as we entered this albergue somehow sounded appropriate.

 

There are other options on the Camino than walking!

 

We then reached the highest point of the entire Camino where one of the Camino landmarks, Cruz de Ferro, dominates the site. It is a modest cross on a tall pole with a heap of stones and other mementos around its base. Following the tradition, we threw the stones we brought from home onto the pile.



Cruz de Ferro: Stones brought from our garden for our immediate family. Other stones for friends and family were also thrown.

Then it was a long descent toward Molinaseca, located lower than this morning's starting point. In Yosemite-speak, it is similar to returning from Nevada Falls to the Valley, approximately a 600m (2000 ft) drop,

This is the part where there is always some mist adding to the atmosphere. But the weather was too good for that. I looked up and around 360 degrees - there was not a single cloud in the blue sky. I thought, " we are going to pay for this later."
We stopped at El Acebo, a logical location for lunch.



A steep descent into Acebo for late lunch

The mid-afternoon heat (now rising above 90 degrees) and the sun blazing from the southwest did not help with the walk or photography. So we continued our pattern of frequent rest, this time stopping at Riego de Ambros. At this point, I was thinking, why don't we adopt the Spanish siesta concept on the Camino? At 2PM, everyone on the trail, freeze! Go into the nearest bar/restaurant and do not come out until 5PM!



Riego de Ambros

The last part of the descent from Riego de Ambros was quite steep and rocky, which unfortunately caused blisters on Chisoon's feet. We wondered whether we should have walked, for that segment, along the asphalt instead, a controversial topic, I am sure.



A chestnut grove in the early part of the final descent from Riego de Ambros

Molinaseca looks a delightful town, which we won't have much time to explore. It ended up being a pretty long day, and tomorrow does not look any shorter...




On the main drag in Molinaseca

Day 4: Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

An easier day today. Left Astorga at 8:45AM and arrived in Rabanal del Camino at 4:45PM with lots of stops in between. The third day of long-distance walking was uncharted territory for us and we did surprisingly well.  The fatigue level in my legs seemed to have reached the peak last night followed by rapid recovery by this morning. More importantly, the reddish swelling in Chisoon's also has significantly improved after oral antibiotics were started.

As our hotel in Astorga was located on the west end, moments after we walked out of the hotel, we were outside the medieval walls. If this was a race to leave the city first, then we would have won handily, but it did not matter since, again, everyone seems to pass us along the way.
We felt pretty confident about the day's itinerary and did not feel rushed. After only an hour's walk, we stopped at the first town, Murias de Rechivaldo. It was mainly to use the facilities, but I realized that in the last three days, the pattern for stopping and having meals has all been different, and we were happy to let the given circumstances guide us spontaneously. Our only sin, of course, is to have booked all hotels even before leaving home.

At this first stop, we had a pleasant conversation with a delightful family of six from Denmark. I thought it would be difficult to coordinate the walk for a relatively large group like that, but amazingly they have done the Camino a few times already. I guess the availability of reasonable airfare within Europe and inexpensive food and lodging on the Camino makes this an attractive option for Northern Europeans who enjoy the sun while keeping in shape, regardless of their religious or spiritual status. After we exchanged jokes about the fact that they were drinking beer early in the morning, we would run into them twice more the rest of the day, and yes, they were drinking beer every time! It was also a pleasure to talk soccer, a chance to display my, ahem, extensive European football knowledge.



An early stop for some Leche Caliente

We next stopped at Santa Catalina de Somoza, a town partially in ruins which supposedly possesses a relic of San Blas who I don't know much about except it is the name of the island chain inhabited by Panamanian indigenous tribes which we have visited. The "Somoza" does not refer to the Indian snack, but is of the Latin origin meaning "under the mountain." Indeed, past the next town El Ganso, the route ascends the last 7 km. We ran into a German couple who started the walk in their hometown nearly three months ago and have covered 1,500 km. That's only about 20 times we have walked. How come they did not start in St. Petersburg, Russia, for God's sake!



The Danish six-some arriving at Santa Catalina



One of the houses not in ruins in Santa Catalina

 

 



Equal time: Buddhist prayer flags stand out among the long stretch of crosses made from tree branches pilgrims have placed near Rabanal

 

 

Rabanal is a charming town with attractive houses along its Calle Real.
At dinner, we sat next to an Englishman who did the entire Camino Frances (and Camino Norte) last year. It rained many days on the Camino last April so he is seeing a lot of things for the first time. But his plantar fasciitis is acting up and yet he would not call ahead to reserve lodging or use luggage transfer service because he is "too proud." We wished him the best of luck on the rest of the way and I encouraged him to take ibuprofen he brought but never used.



A stone church and hollyhocks, Rabanal

 




Rabanal Main Street: kids anywhere these days do not pose normally

Day 3: Villadangos to Astorga

We decided to leave a little earlier, as today's walk to Astorga was going to be long (over 27 km, or nearly 17 miles!)
What I observed even in Barcelona at the beginning of the trip is that the sun rises and sets later than one may expect. Looking at the map provides an explanation. Spain is far west within continental Europe and yet placed in the same time zone as even Central Europe. UTC +1 (while on DST), same as England, seems more appropriate than UTC +2, but maybe it is an EU thing. Anyway, this can potentially throw off early risers and those who plan to start the day very early, as you don't want to be walking in the dark and it is still not very light at 7:30AM. I have come to believe that it's all in your mind. Perhaps this was Mr. Brierley's point when he advocated leaving the clock at home and following nature's cues instead. So if you want to start at the crack of dawn, just leave when there is enough light, regardless of what time it actually is, although I know most people including myself have to plan their day around actual times.




A parting scene through our hotel room window in Villadangos, as the church bells rang at 8AM (on the right). The sun had not fully risen yet.



Even at 9AM, long shadows are cast on to the corn field with the full moon above us.

 

Mid-morning, we spotted apple trees next to the highway not belonging to anyone. Plenty of blackberries and rosehips as well. Chisoon stated that they should plant low-maintenance fruit trees all along the Camino to help the pilgrims.



These small apples were quite tasty.

About a third of the way is the charming town of Hospital de Orbigo, where people who took the route to Mazarife the day before would converge.



A five-leaf clover! Seen in the background is the water tower, which signals arrival at Orbigo.



Puente Orbigo, a historic bridge with a chivalrous legend, is considered one of the grandest landmarks on the entire Camino.



Even albergues in this town look stately.



Villares de Orbigo

Several kilometers further ahead, just past the town named Santibanez de Valdeglesia, is an 8km section described by Bierley as one of the most serene and naturally beautiful paths of the Camino. Unfortunately, the mid-day heat and blinding sun as well as tired legs did not allow us to appreciate it as such. Others seemed to labor through this section as well. A couple of women from Ireland ahead of us were suffering form blisters, who were probably the only people we passed in the last two days. Thankfully our feet survived without any blisters, granted there wasn't much of downhill action today.



At the beginning of this section, this gentleman gave us grapes and refused money. When we offered some of the grapes to fellow walkers, someone thought we stole them from the field!



Abundant hay along the route

Our hotel is wonderfully located in the Cathedral Square and surprised us with a suite. But we did not arrive until 5:45PM, which.left us little time to explore Astorga, a city with much history and culture. I am so used to checking out all major sights as a tourist, but now I am someone on the Camino who has to move on.

The evening was made longer as we had dinner with three people who we had met in Villadangos. We just happened to sit at the table next to them in a restaurant in Plaza Mayor this evening by pure coincidence - what are the chances we would pick that particular table among so many in the city. One of them is a former radiology tech/administrator who had given us a home-made cross when we first met. (She brought from home a whole bunch to distribute to fellow peregrinos.) She now devotes her time to teaching while running an equipment business our of her home, after "being fed up with hospital politics." Hmm...



A view from our hotel room balcony. The Cathedral on the left and Gaudi Palace on the right. Alas, we will not get to see the inside.



Plaza Mayor, while we were having dinner (outdoors on the left, 9.5 euros), seems to become a children's playground.

Day 2: León to Villadangos del Paramo

A successful first day of long-distance walk! We left León at 8:40AM and arrived at the next destination 22km away, Villadangos, at 2:40PM.

First, a confession to make. We took a taxi from our hotel to the León Parador and shaved 2-3 km. Since we did walk the Camino within León yesterday up to the Parador, there was no cheating. I have read that people use transportation when exploring sites not on the Camino as long as they go back to the appropriate point to resume walking.  I wanted to give this first real day of walk our best shot. I was also worried that the red patch that developed on Chisoon's leg would not turn into cellulitis, so wanted to be as cautious as possible.

Going through the León suburbs was a bit confusing. It made me think about what methods are most effective in helping us along: in the order of increasing modernity and personal luxury, the yellow arrows and shell figures on various structures, the brass scallop shells on the pavement, the large signposts on streets, the directions in the guidebook by Brierley, the maps and instructions sent by our travel agent, or the Google map with GPS displayed on my smart phone. And lastly, the fellow walkers themselves. In the end, the answer is all of the above.

A big signpost just outside Leon

 

Just follow the yellow signs.

 

What if someone kicks the little stone and it points in the wrong direction?



It would be nice if there was a sign at every fork in the road in life, unless you are Yogi Berra of course.

 

 The pace of most pilgrims was surprisingly fast. Not only were we one of the last groups to leave our hotel but it seemed we were some of the slowest. In fact, I don't recall overtaking anyone, whereas plenty of people passed us. We could not help but think, "what's the rush?" We all arrived here in mid afternoon, didn't we? I figure 4km per hour is plenty, and slower if significant elevation gain is involved. Speaking of which, today's route was an ideal introduction, as the terrain was flat nearly the entire way. It felt very similar to our practice walks back home.

Today's path to Villadango was an 'alternative," as opposed to the classic route to Mazarife, according to Brierley's book. The Mazarife option does sound more scenic going through small rural villages. This is the only day we were on an alternative route as far as I can tell. I figured that the tour company had no choice as they warned that the second half of September was unusually busy. As the number of pilgrims quadrupled over ten years to over 200,000 a year, all infrastructure must be under pressure, especially in peak season. In the grand scheme of things, it was inconsequential to us, especially since we enjoyed our successful virgin walk today.



The small town of Valerde de la Virgen, on the road to Villadangos. Where is the stork?

Arriving at the outskirts of Villadangos, we passed up a truck stop-like eatery for a possibly better choice in town. We noticed a number of people who had passed us earlier were resting there. (The tortoise and the hare?) We pushed on, only to find that our hotel's restaurant is the only one in the neighborhood and the registration is basically at the bar. The menu del dia that we ordered at 3PM had huge portions (a great deal at 10 Euros). At this rate, we may be the only people who actually gain weight on the Camino.

Some interesting numerology about Villadangos: there was a big war here in the year 1111 and the town's population as of 2012 is 1,111.



As we arrive at today's destination, there is a discouraging reminder.
 

A small church, the main attraction in Villadangos, at dusk

 

Day 1: León

We are finally in Leon, our starting location on the Camino. On the way from the airport, we spotted walkers and could not help but observe how fast they are going, how far they may have walked today and how much they are carrying. "That will be us tomorrow."
The tour packet from Tee Travel was waiting for us at the hotel. But the second battery to be sent by TEP did not materialize so we will have to manage the portable wifi battery which lasts 3-4 hours.

We headed out to the old town, which is just north of our hotel. The first stop was Santa Maria de Carbajal Monastery, where we picked up, for one and a half Euros each, the "credenciales" which are to be stamped along the Camino. They needed to see our ID, so it was the U.S. passport to get the "pilgrim's passport." We also bought a shell to place on our backpack for 5 Euros each. The nuns there run an albergue mentioned prominently in the guidebook by Brierley. There was a long line to get a bed, and we thought, "it is not even noon yet, and these people have already done their day's walk?" At 5 Euros a night, no wonder there is competition.
Among people who just walked hours and still wearing clothes and shoes to reflect it, I started to feel strangely comfortable, my attire including an oversized hat and a vest bulging with photo lenses which must make me look ridiculous.

We were excited to spot our first scallop shells and yellow arrows on the pavement, and since this is our Day 1 after all, we followed part of the Camino in the old town. It was a pleasant walk through tidy alleys and atmospheric squares. Sights included the bustling Plaza Mayor, the Gothic Cathedral, and the Romanesque Church of San Isidro, which boasts superbly preserved 11th century frescoes overlooking royal coffins, a scene that reminded me of murals inside Egyptian pharaohs' tombs.

Our last stop was Plaza San Marcos, the last point on the Camino within the city of Leon. The splendid Parador sits here, which was featured in the movie, "The Way," when the foursome splurged and nearly let their hair down. I thought I could use the fact that we are staying at a lesser place than the Parador whenever hit by the guilt in the presence of the peregrinos who are roughing it. However, it sounds like a number of people are choosing this location to do their one splurge themselves. I could not resist the temptation of one pre-Camino splurge meal and we ended up ordering the tasting menu. In fine Spanish style, the excellent lunch lasted till mid afternoon, which will make us skip dinner as well.

Onwards tomorrow.



Chisoon tying a scallop shell. Santa Maria Albergue in the background.




The Leon Cathedral

 

 

Old Town, Leon

  

The Leon Parador

  

The Cloister at the Parador

 

A regional Pork dish, part of Pigging out at the Parador (not conducive to the Camino spirit)