Camino de Santiago LITE: Day 1 (Camino II): St. Jean Pied de Port, France

Even though St Jean Pied de Port (SJPP or SJPdP for those of us in the know!) is a traditional starting point for Camino Frances, arriving here yesterday evening almost felt like reaching a final destination as we heard and thought much about it since our Camino walk last year.
This time, however, I wasn't as careful as last year about picking a travel route to the starting point, and as we rode from Pamplona to SJPdP, we would to my disappointment trace in reverse the first few stages of the Camino. I did close my eyes when we drove through the towns instantly inviting the tease from the wife and two Canadian ladies who shared the cab ride, but I feel it takes some of the sense of adventure away if you have a preview of the route and places you would toil to get to in the next few days.

Our B&B in SJPdP: tranquil location by River Nive

To reach the center of town, you first cross the "Roman Bridge"...

And then walk along the river.

SJPdP at dusk

True to the spirit of the Camino LITE, we are staying in SJPdP two nights before starting the walk. The extra day is giving us plenty of time to explore this small but charming town at the foot of the Pyrenees. The main drag, Rue de la Citadelle, is lined with historic sites and buildings dating back to as far as the 16th century which serve now as restaurants, interesting shops, and attractive albergues. It's a pity that some people, especially young pilgrims with big back packs, arrive late in the evening and start on the Camino early the following morning without seeing this town.

Gate of Navarre

Going up Rue de la Citadelle: Houses in Basque Country have been traditionally so important to keep in the family and for some of those who were not inheritors opted to immigrate to America.

Macarone shop on Rue de la Citadelle: can't pass this up!

Self-explanatory

A dog napping in front of a house built in 1749 according to the inscription. There are many which are older.

A charming albergue on Rue de la Citadelle: hanging boots give it away.

Rue de la Citadelle

We pick up our new "passports" from the friendly voluntary staff at the pilgrim's office. They dole out advice on the mountain routes to the next stop, Roncesvalles, to the pilgrims. It almost feels like we are at the visitor center at a national park. The experience here is definitely more free-spirited than last year when we got our passports from the nuns at a convent immediately upon arrival in Leon.
We are already meeting a number of pilgrims who are first-timers or who may be doing a short portion of the Camino this time. We feel like veterans. There are conversations here with reference to the movie, "The Way," such as "oh, that is where Martin Sheen meets the Dutch guy who is wolfing down a sandwich."

A route map at Pilgrims' Office: all routes in France (black)converge at SJPdP. Camino Frances in Spain shown in yellow.

A typical medieval pilgrim displayed at the museum, which was used by bishops during Western Schism between Avignon and Rome and later as a town prison

In medieval times, one was not considered a pilgrim without a wooden staff. We brought a pair of Leki Black Diamond hiking poles, which I believe are direct descendants of these.

Gate of St Jacques: to pilgrims who come down from France, this would be the entrance to SJPdP. This gate is now a UNESCO heritage site. Part of the Citadel is in view.

Gate of Notre Dame on the Camino in town with pilgrims being blessed by the Church of Notre Dame.

Church of Notre Dame: I regret the decision not to see a choral concert of Basque songs last night.

Further up on the Camino looking back at Church of Notre Dame, near the start of Route de Napoleon over the Pyrenees.

Camino at night seen from Gate of Notre Dame. Our innkeeper happens to be in the picture, totally unexpected, I swear.

We are in Pays Basque. And we are in France. Might as well accept the gastronomic experience they offer. A Michelin starred restaurant in this small place? Sure, we'll take it. We don't know how we will fare going over the mountains. so we need substantial fare before we head out. Nourishment for the body before nourishment for the soul - it's only fair. Or... just excuse the splurge.