Day 2 (Camino II): SJPdP to ValCarlos

The fog is very thick in the morning despite the weather forecast for a sunny day. Jean-Francois, our B&B owner, reassures that the fog is better than rain as it will burn off. At least there are no ill effects from our gluttony last night. Around the breakfast table, there are two couples from Ireland who are going to Roncesvalles today and then after just one day of walk on the Camino will head for San Sebastian, a couple from Arkansas who have been preparing for the Camino last two years, and a French couple who are just vacationing in SJPdP and do not seem to know too much about the Camino.

 We dawdle after breakfast partly because Jean-Francois is eager to go over his art collection. He is proud specifically of the prints of his friend whose works also include a sculpture on the coast of San Sebastian. Ah, San Sebastian, one of the gastronomic centers of the world. If we finish Camino Frances successfully this time, I will be tempted to try Camino del Norte, along the North Coast of Spain, which goes through San Sebastian.

 

 

The cat's the first to arrive at the breakfast table.

Collection of prints by Chillida at our B&B

Our B&B host going over the route map as well as the legends of the valleys and mountains around here.

But first things first. Onward on Chemin de Saint-Jacques!
Again true to the spirit of Camino LITE, we are taking the lower route to Roncesvalles instead of Route de Napoleon with a 3500ft elevation gain. Furthermore, we are breaking up this stage into two and will stay overnight in Valcarlos, which is our destination today. This route is only 12 km but is less scenic and goes along the roadway for the most part. We are taking the trails away from the roads as much as possible.

Route One or Two? Even in good weather, it is #2 for us. All other pilgrims were heading up Route de Napoleon (#1) and looking at us like we were lost. But we know what we are doing! Don't regret, people, when you get blisters or worse yet stranded.

We have the entire route to Valcarlos to ourselves with no other pilgrims in sight. After we veer off the highway, it finally looks like the Camino we know.

You just have to watch for goat and cow droppings.

A Basque family

Fog is lifting at the Pyrenee foothills and we have a beautiful weather the rest of the day.

Picturesque countryside at the foothills

A shopping center emerges at the border between France and Spain. We decide to have lunch here, one of the few decisions we still have at our disposal after we carefully pre-planned everything! The server cheerfully explains that customers are mostly French who cross the border into Spain to take advantage of lower prices. He is a proud Basque from San Sebastian. This is the third time today that city is mentioned. Maybe it is fate and I am destined to go there.

A gigantic seafood platter at a French-Spanish border shopping center. Quantity over quality. Quite a change from last night's highly elaborate dinner.

For the last few km we are on a scenic route which take us back into France. After one more uphill, we finally arrive at Valcarlos, AKA Valley of Carlos. This is where Carlos the Great, AKA Charlemagne, supposedly licked his wounds after the defeat at Battle of Ronceveax Pass. It is a sleepy town and there are no peregrinos in sight. We find our hotel easily and are thankful that the first day of walk went without foot blisters or pulled muscles!

Arneguy, the town before Valcarlos. Vertical tomatoes.

Crossing the bridge back into France. Wonder what they do at the customs house (left) all day long. The French version of the Camino sign at lower right.

View of Valcarlos: imagine, we are in the Valley of Charlemagne.

Last uphill before Valcarlos is paved with chestnuts.

Finally arriving in Valcarlos

A Valcarlos house



A Valcarlos house

 

 

Our hotel room faces the church. My wool sock is seen hanging. The church bell rings every half hour with the intensity of about 100 Decibels in an otherwise very quiet town. Hope it will stop at a reasonable hour tonight before our long day tomorrow.

 

Reacquainting ourselves with the "menu del peregrino": at 12.5 Euros here, it is definitely on the high end but still a great bargain as it includes three courses, a bottle of wine, water, bread, and no additional tax or tip. And this version (starting with pumpkin soup) is simple delicious home cooking.