Day 3 (Camino II): Valcarlos to Roncesvalles

The breakfast at the hotel is surprisingly anemic. The Irish man with diabetes at the next table is perturbed about having only bread to eat. He and his wife are the only pilgrims we have seen so far. We congratulate each other on the decision to take this route. We still face an elevation gain of 2000 Ft (Route de Napoleon would demand a 3500 ft gain.) Perhaps he provides extra motivation for Chisoon to decide to walk all the way to Roncesvalles today, whereas I had counted on her taking a taxi for this stage, probably the most physically challenging portion, given her feet problems. She claims though that she is walking with me so I won't get lost or distracted while taking pictures!

We also pack lunch as this is the only stage where I know there won't be any bars or restaurants on the way. The first part is relatively flat although we walk mostly on the roadway and we constantly watch the traffic. The last third is unrelenting uphill but it is no worse than the hike from Yosemite Valley to Nevada Falls, I keep reminding myself.

Leaving Valcarlos: bobbleheads of the Pyrenees? These would spook passing pilgrims more than birds...

Even along the roadway, there is interesting stuff to look at.

 

A welcome path off the highway starts here. Taking a break with a chocolate croissant.

Narrow path overlooking the valley

Last push uphill toward Ibaneta Pass.

We finally reach Ibaneta Pass before descending to Roncesvalles. Once we reach Ibaneta, the stone erected for Roland, nephew of Charlemagne, who was memorialized in La Chanson de Roland, comes into view. It turns out that Song of Roland, the oldest surviving piece of French literature, is historically incorrect about Roland's death, as he was killed by the Basque rather than the Saracens during the Battle of Ronceveaux (Roncesvalles) between two Christian sides. However, the epic poem has been used to motivate Catholic pilgrims since medieval times. It's a pity that few people bother to come up to see the simple monument and enjoy the vista.  After a picnic lunch next to the monument, it is straight to our final destination for today.

Ibaneta Pass: Roland's monument coming in view.

Monument to Roland: this is supposedly where his horn was heard as he faces death.

Roncesvalles, the Valley of Thorns. Is often the starting point for Spanish pilgrims. It is surprisingly quite small for such an important spot on the Camino. Basically the town is dominated by the church complex. Our very nice hotel in fact adjoins the church.

We get to Roncesvalles early enough to explore, and although the town is so compact, it's been a busy afternoon and evening. Sign up for a pilgrims' dinner, visit the cloisters and the mausoleum of Sancho the Strong, admire the 14th century statue of Our Lady of Roncesvalles in Santa Maria Church, browse the bookstore, take a guided tour of the museum at 5:30pm to see Charlemagne's chessboard among other things, visit St James Church and Silo de Carlomagno which contains a burial site, have dinner at Sabina in a semi-communal manner, attend the 8pm mass, and finish with a free screening of the movie version of Don Giovanni on the second floor of the church! (And after-dinner drinks with Ian and Liz who walked together with us today.) And to think that some people after a very long and tiring day, would go straight to bed and miss all that...

Roncesvalles: our hotel contiguous with the church

Our Lady of Roncesvalles in Santa Maria Church: Difficult to believe that this is from 14th century.

Cloisters

Mausoleum of Sancho the Strong, last of the Spanish rulers in Navarre. Behind the iron bars is the chain he broke during the battle against Moors. The chain is part of the Navarre flag.

 

A burial chamber, sort of a semi-ossuary in Silo de Carlomagno. Various theories on who are buried here, including the rear-guard of the Charlemagne army who lost in Battle of Roncevaux Pass.