Monday, September 29, 2014

Day 6 (Camino II): Pamplona to Puente la Reina

This Pamplona hotel is quite chic but many of the guests are dressed and act like perergrinos. Its name Maisonnave sounded familiar and the hotel staff confirm that it is indeed the same as the French name in the Maisonneuve fracture. Well, maybe we should thank the hotel for the well wishes, "break a leg." Speaking of which, Chisoon's feet have held up quite well so far.  Her dedicated primary care physician did a great job back home, even employing liquid nitrogen and duct tape treatments. But today she will give her feet some rest and the plan is for her to take a taxi and meet up with me midway at Zariquiegui. First time on this trip that I am walking by myself.

An overcast gloomy day. Just outside Cizur Menor, the first town from Pamplona.

Heaps of hay resemble castle ruins seen from a distance. This is the old battlefield where Charlemagne scored victories against the Moors.


On the way to Zariquiegui

Zariquiegui coming into view

The rendezvous is a total success. I get there earlier than I thought and we arrive almost simultaneously.  The taxi driver is the same guy who drove us from Pamplona to SJPdP! What are the chances when the Pamplona hotel calls a random taxi and it happens to be him? From Zariquiegui, we climb 45 minutes to the top of Alto del Perdon, the highest point on today's route.

Steady climb up to Alto del Perdon

Poppies - an unexpected sighting

 Alto del Perdon - Hill of Forgiveness. Monumento Peregrino - Pilgrim's Monument. A fine vista. This is a great place to take it all in. It makes you want to forgive. Well, I am not a saint... Looking toward the west, like these pilgrims, a series of towns we will be going through are seen.

Alto del Perdon: Pilgrims' Monument

And throw a modern one in.

From Alto del Person, looking west: not the best visibility today but the rest of the towns we cover today are seen

While having lunch at an albergue in Uterga, the rain starts to come down seriously. We wait it out a bit, but to no avail. "I sent the umbrellas and ponchos with the luggage. The one day I did not bring the raingear with me because I believed the weather forecast, it rains." "That is so unlike you, the queen of over-preparation." Fortunately we spot ponchos for sale at the albergue. At 4 Euros each, they are simple but functional. At the next town, Muruzubal, we decide not to take a detour to Eunate to see a 12th century Romanesque church, one of the landmarks on the Camino. At this point saving an extra 3km feels huge. At Obanos, the square is dominated by San Juan Bautista Church. It contains the skull of St. Guillen, whose legend spawned "the Mystery of Obanos."

Approaching Uterga



Muruzabal: not much to see here except there is a detour to Eunate with a 12th century church. We give it a miss on this rainy day. The 4-Euro poncho comes with a designer shell symbol.

Obanos coming in view


Obanos: San Juan Bautista Church

The next Nadal, don't you think?

We walk the last few km with two 20 something's who are on an "open-ended" journey to figure out what to do with their lives. They check into a busy albergue at the edge of Puente la Reina. We had reserved the hotel portion of this albergue but changed it subsequently to a place more centrally located. Although it is not a very large town, I am glad I made the change, as I walk down long Calle Mayor. Central and tranquil beat peripheral and bustling.

Puente la Reina, our destination today, is long and narrow. So is its Calle Mayor.
 
Puente la Reina: view outside our hotel room

Puente la Reina: Santiago Church dating back to 12th Century


Puente la Reina: inside Santiago Church

 

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