Day 12: Portomarin to Palas de Rei

No rain except a few sprinkles. A local lady told us that they need rain after a three-month drought in Galicia. I totally sympathize, but I am happy to keep dry.

The main square in Portomarin is not actually on the Camino, so when we left our tranquil farmhouse we made a conscious decision to detour and see San Nicolas Church.  It was rebuilt stone by stone from its original location which is now submerged.  A Galician version of Abu Simbel, I guess.



A colonnade leading up to the church, Portomarin

A steady climb is punctuated by flat segments of attractive woodland. We are already anticipating our usual mid-morning leche caliente.





A pine forest with a fern floor



right across the road, the same design, except oak trees instead of pines

Finally at Gonzar, a cafe where everyone seems to stop. A group of friendly Irish women who started in Sarria are among those fascinated by Chisoon's handmade rain skirt. They also acknowledge the similarity between Galicia and their country on many levels.

A late but important stop for mid-morning snack

The delicious melon is ubiquitous.

In Lameiro, there is a sign noting the site where Charles V and King Philip of Spain stayed (it is now a barn), a reminder that we are on a historical pilgrimage route. Alas, few people seem to bother to notice it.

A historic site where royalties stayed, now a barn

At the last hill before Palas de rei is the little hamlet of Rosario, where pilgrims used to start reciting the Rosary upon spotting the sacred peak behind Santiago.




before Rosario




Rosario

Entering Palas de Rei we are greeted by a lady standing by the church door and motioning us to come in to get our passports stamped. For a "donativo" of course.


How about more languages? Maybe there will be more donativo then.

The check-in at Hotel Casa Benilde after a long day of walk is handled by a very sweet and welcoming person who shall remain nameless (Francisco). Same for his coworkers, Pilar and Isabel.

A tough day was made worse by longer photo stops for my smart phone,  as I had feared that I won't be able to dowload my "real" pictures from my camera to my Surface, which is acting up. I did manage today, but tomorrow's another day. A long day.