Friday, September 27, 2013

Day 10: Triacastela to Sarria

Rain.
But intermittent and light to moderate, so it was a good introduction to how to walk long-distance in the wet weather which is the forecast for the next several days.

This was the first day I set out when it was still dark. And sure enough I made a wrong turn getting out of Triacastela, heading initially toward Samos instead of San Xil. The Samos route goes through the magnificent Benedictine monastery, but it adds an extra 6 km, so the visit will have to wait until next time. I made a quick recovery along with a few other walkers and soon we were on a straight path up toward the summit.

A good deed goes punished: this missed sign would have been obvious, had I left a littler later.

It was surprisingly pleasant to walk in light rain although the walkers seemed a bit tense and "Buen Camino" did not roll off the tongue as easily. Time went by quickly aided by a nice conversation with an American surgeon who has been in rehab, physical and psychological, after a terrible accident. I did not stop for two and a half hours, which is unusual, but there were places to go and people to see - Chisoon was taking a cab to a half way point which was at the foot of the mountain on the other side. The umbrella worked quite well, since it was not very windy. I could take photos along the way despite the conditions, although having only two hands and two armpits while also handling the umbrella, the hiking pole, and the guidebook, I had to resort to certain contortions to accomplish it.


Through light rain, there was still visibility of attractive landscape.


I arrived at Casa do Franco in Furela, the rendezvous spot, a full hour earlier, and Chisoon and the Jersey lady had just arrived as well.  The poncho seems to be the raingear of choice. I have not warmed up to it yet since it can get quite stuffy, but Chisoon spotted an ideal model with a separate compartment for a backpack and a front and side zippers. We will be ordering it if we decide to return to the Camino some day, which we are increasingly leaning toward.

Chisoon in full raingear, including the double hats and a self-made rain skirt.


Even the sheep do not like the rain, including the little one.
At San Mamed del Camino, we stopped at an albergue with a large garden and spacious common area filled with incense. There were also a stone with a Tibetan Buddhist drawing on it and a foot massage machine. There I had an epiphany. Even though I have seen occasional advertisements for massage along the way, how about the Chinese foot massage which is ubiquitous throughout China and readily available even in the Bay area? A great business idea. You read it here first. But do we want People's Republic of China to discover the Camino?

Foot massage industry obviously in its infancy

Sarria is a fairly big city and this facility, after a series of rural inns, feels like a 7 star hotel. The rain fortunately stopped during our evening stroll through the old quarter. Sarria is also a starting point for many pilgrims who can amass the requisite 100 km to receive the certificate. Mr Brierley warns us against "aloofness built on a false sense of superiority" toward many of the nervous people who are just starting out. Ha. We have attained such a lofty status?

Scallop shells galore, Sarria


A pilgrim mural at Iglesia de Santa Marina, Sarria


1 comment:

  1. Kudos to you and Chisoon for weathering out the Camino, come rain or sunshine, and foot blisters and all.
    Chinese foot massage places will contaminate the scenery though.

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