Day 3: Villadangos to Astorga

We decided to leave a little earlier, as today's walk to Astorga was going to be long (over 27 km, or nearly 17 miles!)
What I observed even in Barcelona at the beginning of the trip is that the sun rises and sets later than one may expect. Looking at the map provides an explanation. Spain is far west within continental Europe and yet placed in the same time zone as even Central Europe. UTC +1 (while on DST), same as England, seems more appropriate than UTC +2, but maybe it is an EU thing. Anyway, this can potentially throw off early risers and those who plan to start the day very early, as you don't want to be walking in the dark and it is still not very light at 7:30AM. I have come to believe that it's all in your mind. Perhaps this was Mr. Brierley's point when he advocated leaving the clock at home and following nature's cues instead. So if you want to start at the crack of dawn, just leave when there is enough light, regardless of what time it actually is, although I know most people including myself have to plan their day around actual times.




A parting scene through our hotel room window in Villadangos, as the church bells rang at 8AM (on the right). The sun had not fully risen yet.



Even at 9AM, long shadows are cast on to the corn field with the full moon above us.

 

Mid-morning, we spotted apple trees next to the highway not belonging to anyone. Plenty of blackberries and rosehips as well. Chisoon stated that they should plant low-maintenance fruit trees all along the Camino to help the pilgrims.



These small apples were quite tasty.

About a third of the way is the charming town of Hospital de Orbigo, where people who took the route to Mazarife the day before would converge.



A five-leaf clover! Seen in the background is the water tower, which signals arrival at Orbigo.



Puente Orbigo, a historic bridge with a chivalrous legend, is considered one of the grandest landmarks on the entire Camino.



Even albergues in this town look stately.



Villares de Orbigo

Several kilometers further ahead, just past the town named Santibanez de Valdeglesia, is an 8km section described by Bierley as one of the most serene and naturally beautiful paths of the Camino. Unfortunately, the mid-day heat and blinding sun as well as tired legs did not allow us to appreciate it as such. Others seemed to labor through this section as well. A couple of women from Ireland ahead of us were suffering form blisters, who were probably the only people we passed in the last two days. Thankfully our feet survived without any blisters, granted there wasn't much of downhill action today.



At the beginning of this section, this gentleman gave us grapes and refused money. When we offered some of the grapes to fellow walkers, someone thought we stole them from the field!



Abundant hay along the route

Our hotel is wonderfully located in the Cathedral Square and surprised us with a suite. But we did not arrive until 5:45PM, which.left us little time to explore Astorga, a city with much history and culture. I am so used to checking out all major sights as a tourist, but now I am someone on the Camino who has to move on.

The evening was made longer as we had dinner with three people who we had met in Villadangos. We just happened to sit at the table next to them in a restaurant in Plaza Mayor this evening by pure coincidence - what are the chances we would pick that particular table among so many in the city. One of them is a former radiology tech/administrator who had given us a home-made cross when we first met. (She brought from home a whole bunch to distribute to fellow peregrinos.) She now devotes her time to teaching while running an equipment business our of her home, after "being fed up with hospital politics." Hmm...



A view from our hotel room balcony. The Cathedral on the left and Gaudi Palace on the right. Alas, we will not get to see the inside.



Plaza Mayor, while we were having dinner (outdoors on the left, 9.5 euros), seems to become a children's playground.