Day 5: Rabanal to Molinaseca

Today's challenge was supposed to be the altitude change, as we go up and down a mountain. The elevation gain during the initial ascent, as far as I can figure out, is a little over 300m (1000 ft). So it's like going up to the Vernal Falls from Yosemite Valley, except the route is stretched over a longer distance. Not a problem.




Leaving Rabanal. After some consideration, we brought just one hiking pole from home. Even though it is not a classic long wooden staff, it came handy on a day like today.

Predictably by now, we stopped at the first village for a drink before continuing the ascent. Foncebadon is an abandoned village now coming back to life to support the pilgrims. We met an elderly American man who was waiting for an albergue there to open. He got sick last night at Rabanal from what sounded like food poisoning or a stomach virus. He took a taxi this morning to get up to Foncebadon. It appears that not being able to complete a walk, even for a segment, can certainly have a psychological effect. Who knows whether it will happen to us. I think it is no shame to do just what your body (and mind) allow you to do here, even though it falls short of your original goal. We tried to assure him that it will pass soon and gave him some alcohol wipes we had, which is all we could contribute.



Fondebadon: A previously abandoned town. The piped-in Gregorian chants as we entered this albergue somehow sounded appropriate.

 

There are other options on the Camino than walking!

 

We then reached the highest point of the entire Camino where one of the Camino landmarks, Cruz de Ferro, dominates the site. It is a modest cross on a tall pole with a heap of stones and other mementos around its base. Following the tradition, we threw the stones we brought from home onto the pile.



Cruz de Ferro: Stones brought from our garden for our immediate family. Other stones for friends and family were also thrown.

Then it was a long descent toward Molinaseca, located lower than this morning's starting point. In Yosemite-speak, it is similar to returning from Nevada Falls to the Valley, approximately a 600m (2000 ft) drop,

This is the part where there is always some mist adding to the atmosphere. But the weather was too good for that. I looked up and around 360 degrees - there was not a single cloud in the blue sky. I thought, " we are going to pay for this later."
We stopped at El Acebo, a logical location for lunch.



A steep descent into Acebo for late lunch

The mid-afternoon heat (now rising above 90 degrees) and the sun blazing from the southwest did not help with the walk or photography. So we continued our pattern of frequent rest, this time stopping at Riego de Ambros. At this point, I was thinking, why don't we adopt the Spanish siesta concept on the Camino? At 2PM, everyone on the trail, freeze! Go into the nearest bar/restaurant and do not come out until 5PM!



Riego de Ambros

The last part of the descent from Riego de Ambros was quite steep and rocky, which unfortunately caused blisters on Chisoon's feet. We wondered whether we should have walked, for that segment, along the asphalt instead, a controversial topic, I am sure.



A chestnut grove in the early part of the final descent from Riego de Ambros

Molinaseca looks a delightful town, which we won't have much time to explore. It ended up being a pretty long day, and tomorrow does not look any shorter...




On the main drag in Molinaseca